Uganda 10: May 18, 2004

Some people have wondered how we occupy ourselves in a poor African country like Uganda. Don't we get bored? Are we prisoners in our homes due to security concerns? So far, the answer to both has been no.

We're actually quite active in Uganda not least because of the weather. One of the few downsides to Bangkok was that it seldom got below the high 80s (temperature and humidity). However, Kampala is pleasingly mild, with days usually in the high 70s or low 80s and nights in the mid-60s. We're in the midst of one of the two annual rainy seasons, but most of the storms (which can get quite energetic) take place in the middle of the night. You may wake up thinking the armageddon has come, but you won't miss your golf game during the day. Many Ugandans, even in Kampala, rely on wood or charcoal for cooking and heat and they also burn their garbage, which occasionally can lead to a smoky haze covering the city. However, generally the air quality is good with few industrial pollutants.

We take advantage of the weather to do a lot of outdoor activities. Liz runs 5-6 miles 5 days a week. I set a bit more modest goals, but still run 4.5 miles 2-3 times a week. On our runs, at times, we attract a group of young boys who jog along for a few dozen yards or encounter children waiving their hands yelling out "muzungu" (white person). When I answer in Luganda "olyeotya" (How are you?), it usually brings the house down as some do a double take and others scream out (I'm guessing here, becase my Luganda doesn't go much beyond oleotya) "Did you hear that crazy muzungu? He just said hello. Crazy!" The fact that I've passed them two times a week for the past 6 months doesn't lessen their surprise or enjoyment. Actually, one very nice thing about our runs is that whenever we run by Ugandans (and this happens every few feet as Ugandans walk everywhere) they will waive, smile or shout encouragement. Very pleasant. We joined a nearby club and I try to swim laps in the outdoor pool every Saturday. The club also has a gym, which Liz uses but inside of which I have yet to venture. We both threaten to play tennis, but have only made one or two attempts. The Marines organize a flag football game every Sunday and I drag my aged 37-year old body out most weeks. Though I fancy myself a possession receiver, I think my primary position is designated wheezer. I am pleased to report no injuries to date other than perhaps whiplash from watching others go whizzing by. Our neighbors have a great dog, a doberman named Shadow, who I periodically chase around the yard as part of my cross-training schedule.

When we get the chance, though less often than we'd like, we drive outside of Kampala to enjoy the countryside. Lake Victoria actually is only a few miles away. The source of the Nile is a 1.5 hour drive, as is the equator. Uganda's national parks are a greater distance (only largely lousy roads) away, but I've been to Queen Elizabeth and Liz has been to Lake Mburro. We hope to do more. There also are many regional travel opportunities of which we hope to take advantage.

As I think I mentioned in an earlier e-mail, Uganda is much more cosmopolitan than I guessed before we arrived. There are about 15 good restaurants (about 14 more than I would have expected) from which we can choose, including excellent Indian, Italian, and Belgian, as well as good Lebanese, Chinese, and Thai. We can order Pizza for delivery and it arrives hot at our door within 30 minutes. The cheese is not great, but it's not too bad. I'll write more about food in a later e-mail. There are several art galleries and we have gotten to know a few artists. There are several openings a week and we've made a few purchases. The National Theater also produces plays, though we have yet to attend. Garden City Mall has a two-screen theater, which gets first run movies. They're a bit creative with the schedule, but we've managed to see Master and Commander, the Return of the King, and Love Actually. Von Helsing and Troy are playing this week.

Our Ambassador is an active host, and I usually have a function or two each week to attend at his residence, some large receptions, some smaller dinners or lunches. They're work and I have to mingle, but it's a good opportunity to meet Ugandan government officials, businesspeople, and other diplomats. Other Embassy personnel host more informal events. Now that we have all our furniture, Liz and I like to have people over for dinner. Liz works the front of the house as hostess, while I focus on the kitchen. We brought lots of Thai ingredients from Bangkok, so I focus on Thai food, though Uganda has a good selection of fruits and vegetables, which allows me to make many things that I look up in cookbooks.

Kampala has a thriving nightlife, though, to be honest, we haven't hit many of the bars. You will all be surprised that I have yet to make it to any of the dance clubs. One problem, unfortunately, is that many of the upscale clubs are crowded with very aggressive prostitutes making it difficult to relax (unless, of course, the prostitutes were the reason you went to the club in the first place. Have I already mentioned that I do not go to these clubs?) There are a few places to check out Ugandan music and dance. About 3 miles away, the Austrian government sponsored the construction of an outdoor ampitheater to host a Ugandan music and dance troop. On a nice night, you can sit under the stars munching on roasted goat, watching traditional festivities. As Uganda gets few casual visitors, most attendees are other Ugandans who at times will get up to join the dancing, making the performance seem less a tourist show. Like every city on the planet, Kampala has a few Irish pubs and we go to one for most birthdays and other special events. It has a large outdoor porch that doubles as a dance floor after Liz has had a few cocktails. About 40 Embassy personnel and friends descended on the bar the other week to celebrate Liz's birthday. Liz's original and acrobatic routines on the dance floor have attracted wide admiration among the Embassy community with one of her new moves dubbed the "pit latrine." (photo attached) Liz's day was made when a Marine told her he thought she was "25 max."

During the week, work keeps us pretty busy, though we do go out to dinner with friends or by ourselves. Uganda attracts a lot of official visitors and we often have to bring them out for dinner as well. Tiring, but I'm working on my Uganda dining guide. Liz has joined a book club and I have a monthly poker game. We get South African satellite TV with about 40 channels (just like in the US, only about 5 are worth watching, though I'm obsessed with the BBC food channel). A few months ago, the Embassy also installed at our house a dish to receive American Forces Network -- the military satellite network. We get three channels of up to date TV shows (though the selection generally is poor), news, and sports. I'm anxiously awaiting college football season.