For many, August is the slowest month, a time for long weekends and summer vacations. Unfortunately, my biggest event of the year, the annual bilateral U.S.-Vietnam Joint Advisory Committee on Agent Orange/dioxin, takes place in early September. Therefore (cue violins), for me, August usually means trying to scrounge up a budget, coordinating logistics, and focusing on deliverables. However, my beloved wife and I escaped for a three day weekend to celebrate our 12th anniversary (we were teenaged newlyweds).
This year, we traveled to Hoi An, on the coast in central Vietnam. From the 17th to the 19th centuries, Hoi An was a major international port and you can still see foreign architectural and stylistic influences, particularly from Japan and China. Unlike Hanoi, the old quarter of Hoi An remains well preserved and pedestrian friendly. Gates prevented motorbikes and cars from disturbing us as we meandered down pleasant streets and alleys. On most thoroughfares, houses had been transformed into cafes, shops, and galleries. Some of the oldest homes, from the early 19th century, have been well-maintained and welcome tours. Instead of modern signage and commercial displays, front awnings are covered by yellow, purple and pink flowers. A footbridge spans part of the Thu Bon river and from it, during the day, you look back to a Japanese covered bridge or to rows of yellow buildings with dark green shutters and red slate roofs underneath a washed-out blue sky.
Of course, in the middle of summer it was incredibly hot, so we spent as much time exploring the restaurants as we did the streets. With all the Western tourists, Hoi An boasts a nice variety of places to eat. We sampled the local specialty of Cao Lau – roast pork and noodles – and also ate Vietnamese-American fusion along the river. In the evening, the cafes fill up with foreigners while groups of young Vietnamese gather together along the riverbank. Hoi An is famous for its colorful lanterns, which light up the streets and storefronts. Tunes from a group of local musicians and singers wafted along while we ate.
We actually stayed a few miles up the coast from the city at one of Vietnam’s nicest resorts, the Nam Hai. Normally reserved for those wealthier than us, special prices during the low summer season caused the room rates to slip (barely) into our price range. We stayed in an ocean-view villa of the type that make you want to lay around all day without venturing outside. We did force ourselves up and out to one of the three infinity pools and to walk along the beach. Very relaxing. Now, if only we can get back after my big meeting.
