Wednesday, October 4, 2000

Southeast Asia Dining Guide

Italics: recommended dishes Italics and bold: the best dishes Asterisk after restaurant: Popular with locals. Dates after restaurants indicate last time I have eaten there.  Some are now quite dated.

THAILAND

Best of (Bangkok only)

Best Thai restaurants:

Admakers (moved from original Langsuan location.  Have not been there in several years)
Anna's (bonus for great Western desserts) (the original on Sala Daeng, but may have closed)
Baan Klang Nam
Blue Elephant
Dairy Queen
Food stalls (all over town, if you are willing to risk stomach problems)
Kalapapruek (either branch)
Patara
Sara Jane's
Suda Best

Western restaurants:

Bed
Biscotti
Calderazzo
Delicatezza
Eat Me
Jesters
Kuppa
La Piola (and its twin, Da Mimi)
Le Normandie
Lord Jims
New York Steak House
Witches Oyster Bar

Best other Asian:

Bai Yun
Indian Hut
China House
Rang Mahal
Shintaro

Best Brunch:

Four Seasons (possibly best in the world)
Sukhothai

Most Elegant:

Le Banyan
Le Normandie

Best Bars:

Admakers (moved after 2007, have not been to new incarnation)
Brown Sugar
Diplomat Bar (in May 2003, at least, the hip place for wealthy farang and hi-so Thai)
Vertigo (best view in town)
Sirocco (64 floors up, great views over the Chao Praya, around corner from Oriental, expensive but great marinated olives)

Restaurant List

Admakers* – Soi Langsuan, across street from our apartment (December 2007) Live music -- accoustic guitar early, rock band later. Very casual atmosphere popular with Thais and Farangs. If you order correctly, you can eat quite well. Moved to new location.  Have not visited.

Penang Curry
Larb
Mixed vegetables (not good)
Northern sausage (not good)
Shrimp w/ oyster sauce
Catfish w/ginger
Fried mini-crabs
Crab larb
Spring rolls
Fish mousse curry
Wing bean salad
Yam catfish
Fried whole snakehead fish w/eggplant – surprisingly good.  One of my favorite dishes, period. Yam som o
Green curry w/roti
Crab omelette
Omelette w/basil
Lemongrass salad
Shrimp w/ lemongrass
Shrimp w/ginger and chilis
Northern style eggplant
Chicken w/noodles
Sundried beef
Tom kha kai
Tom yum goong

Airplane* -- Lang Suan Small Italian. Outside seating in nice weather. Food only ok, but Thais like it. (2002)

Spinach, mushroom, cheese melt
Fried mozarella Pizza w/ prosciutto (they use regular ham)

Al Nakhila -- Ploenchit Center Small, fast food counter-type restaurant. Lebanese. (2003)

Samosa 
cheese
Lebneh
Tzatziki
Fattoush salad
Chicken shawarma w/ hummus
Stuffed grape leaves

Angelini – in the Shangri La Very upscale. Beautiful bar area. Comfortable seating. Fancy Italian. Focus on preparation and presentation. Italian chef. Large and expensive wine list. Very good, but not markedly better than other Italian restaurants around town. Excellent mango juice. (2002)

Langoustine and asparagus fritters
Mushroom ravioli in vegetable broth
Grouper w/tomato, olive sauce
Prawn and apple risotto
Shrimp w/zucchini and scamorza cheese 
Tagliolini in stewed artichoke 
Lobster and mozarella ravioli w/ marinara sauce 
Chocolate souffle 
Lemoncello crème brulee 
Peach sorbet

Anna’s* Sala Daeng Very pretty dining area, airy, nice wait-staff. Very good seafood dishes. Wonderful, western desserts. Recently changed menu, removing a few of the best dishes. Lots of Thai diners. Popular for birthdays.  (2003, now sadly gone)

Papaya salad (Som tam) 
Fried catfish w/ smoked pepper sauce 
Fried catfish salad w/ mango chili sauce 
Steamed fish w/panang curry
Grilled pork
Vegetable omelette w/ spicy fish dip
Glass noodles w/ mixed seafood 
Shrimp balls w/ mushroom sauce 
Shrimp cakes
Green curry w/ duck
Chicken wings 
Bamboo and fish curry 
Fish w/ yellow curry
Fish w/spicy pepper sauce
Khao soi 
Yom plaa duk foo  (fried catfish)
Fried spring rolls Chicken satay 
Gai yaang 
Pad Thai 
Omelette w/ pork & vegetables
Omelette w/curry
Jungle curry w/herb omelette 
Eggplant and pork 
Sticky date pudding 
Blueberry cheesecake 
Banana coffee caramel pie 
Apple crumble 

Aqua -- at the Four Seasons Hotel.  In the courtyard. Serves mediterranean snacks, plus special noodles menu on Saturdays. Nice place to have a drink and relax.  (03/04)

Hummus
Baba ghannouj
Kofta 
Khao soi 
Egg noodles w/barbecued pork 
Vegetable potstickers

Arun Residence -- on the Chao Praya, right across from Wat Arun Eat outside on the deck overlooking Wat Arun in the evening as brightly lit dinner cruises pass up and down the river. Mixed Thai and western menu. Not bad, but you're there for the view. (1/08)

Seabass 
Softshell crab 

Auberge Dab -- across from Central Chitlom Relaxed, comfortable service. A nice bass combo plays while you eat. Enjoyable French food, somewhat expensive for Bangkok. (2003)

Scallop salad 
Fried goat cheese 
Roast chicken 

Profiteroles w/chocolate sauce 

Baan Chiang -- off of Soi Pramuan, 50 yards from Syringa Isaan specialties in a converted Thai home. Popular with European guests. Spicy. (2003)
Sundried beef
Penang Gai
Chicken in kale leaf
Wingbean salad
Shrimp and mushroom salad
Shrimp and broccoli
Shrimp and bacon skewers

Baan Khanita -- Sukhumvit Soi 23 The first of the two Baan Khanitas. Pretty surroundings. Good food. Deep fried sun dried beef Chicken curry Baan Khanita & Gallery – Soi Ruam rudee Close by, beautiful art, very good service. Nice wine list. Good food, spiced for the farang palate (a little sweeter). Increasingly expensive. (March 2004)

Tonglang leaves w/ chili, molasses, dried shrimp, peanut, toasted coconut, lime, onion, pepper, ginger 
Chiang Mai sausage 
Fried shrimp on sugar cane 
Shrimp cakes 
Chicken w/lemongrass 
Wingbean salad 
Softshell crab and red curry 
Green curry w/ chicken 
Yam Som O (pomelo salad) 
Softshell crab w/ chili paste 
Chicken in Pandamus leaves 
Shrimp w/ tamarind sauce and fried basil 
Chicken w/ tamarind sauce and fried basil 
Steamed fish w/ lime and garlic 
Shrimp w/ coconut tips 
Duck curry 
Fried sundried beef 
Softshell crab, egg and curry powder 
Spicy beef salad 
Eggplant salad
Fried seabass w/fried spicy basil leaves
Grilled cottonfish 
Sticky rice w/mango 
Taro balls in coconut milk 

Baan Klang Naam* -- Rama III Soi 14 Right on the river. Large, open air seafood restaurant. Seems to be a favorite place for Thais to take their foreign guests. Fresh seafood, nice and spicy.  (2008)

Steamed sea bass with lime and chili 
Stir fried shrimp w/garlic 
Watercress w/oyster sauce 
Sour soup w/crispy snakehead fish 

Bai Yun -- 59th floor of Banyan Tree hotel, on Sathorn Formal, yet modern Chinese restaurant, with excellent views of the city. Varied menu with many dishes not found in the U.S. Somewhat expensive. (2003)

Pine nuts and fruit in taro basket 
Barbecued pork and duck 
Shredded duck and taro spring roll 
Bamboo pith soup w/mushroom 
Kale w/crab 
Spicy lamb 
Pan fried garoupa 
Seafood noodles w/pepper 
Crispy pigeon 

Bali – ordered in --Indonesian (2002)

Nasi goreng 
Beef w/spices 
Chicken w/ spices 
Gado gado

Barbican -- also a pub, on the Japanese girlie soi in Patpong Pretty good food to go with a full bar. (2002)

Caesar salad 
Steak Lemon tart 

Bed -- Sukumvit Soi 11 Very hip and trendy. Also, a popular bar, club. 60s vision of the future. Everybody is served at once with a limited menu, but very good. Great place for New Years.   (2003) (Update: Reportedly closing as of 8/2013)

Cream of broccoli soup 
Cream of mushroom soup w/smoked salmon 
Mixed seafood pasta 
Steak
Watermelon and feta salad 
Warm chocolate cake 
Blueberry crème brulee 

Bio Kitchen -- Soi Pipat Small, clean, bright, popular with women office workers for lunch. Also, a bakery. (2003)

Fried rice w/shrimp
Oreo cheese cake
Apple juice

Biscotti -- off the lobby in the Four Seasons Hotel on Radjadamri. Sleekly decorated Italian. Popular with the hotel guests, particularly the Japanese. Very good food. Menu similar to an upscale Italian restaurant in the U.S. Good wine list. Serves breakfast buffet to hotel guests -- excellent waffles. (March 2004)

Fritto Misto 
Lobster carpaccio 
Grilled prawns w/polenta and shrimp bisque 
Lentil soup w/ pig's trotters
Risotto w/seafood
Risotto w/duck breast and white asparagus 
Potato Gnocchi w/ lobster ragu 
Crispy gnocchi w/pesto 
Seabass 
Mozarella ravioli w/ honey, berries and cinammon ice cream 
Capuccino mousse 
Donuts w/strawberry sorbet 
Cherry pie w/ almond ice cream

Blue Elephant -- on Thanon Sathorn, next to St. Louis Hospital Former Thai-Chinese chamber of commerce building. Turn of the century colonial architechture. Royal Thai cuisine w/some interesting fusion dishes. Pretty interior. One of several Blue Elephant restaurants around the world. Also, has a very nice cooking school. (2003)

Lamb chop kaprow 
Steamed sea bass with lime 
Paper shrimp 
Chicken and shrimp stuffed dumplings 
Black pepper shrimp 
Duck nam tok 
Scallops and mangosteen salad 
Salmon laab 
am tok tuna 
Buop w/mushroom (vegetable) 
Green currry w/eggplant and black chicken 
Custard in a young coconut 
Black sesame ice cream 
Mixed fruit sorbets 

Bussaracum -- on Soi Pan, off Sathorn, around corner from Burmese Embassy Slightly more formal, Royal Thai cuisine. (2002)

Shitake mushrooms and shrimp 
Lettuce leaves stuffed with shrimp and lime juice 
Mixed vegetables in oyster sauce 
Eggplant stuffed w/shrimp and pork 
Chicken w/pepper steamed in bamboo 
Lemongrass juice 

Cabbages & Condoms – off Sukhumvit.  In all the guides due to its colorful pro-condom message. More Thai eating there than I thought, but still a farang place. Pretty surroundings. Food was OK. Does a good job w/ fried things. (2002)

Shrimp in oyster sauce w/ asparagus
Spicy eggplant salad 
Fried cottonfish w/ mango sauce 
Spicy duck salad

Café Du Monde (Became an additional Anna’s, but might now be gone)– Diethelm building, across the street from U.S. Embassy on Wittaju. Mix of Thai and Continental. Had a nice wine tasting. (2003)

Fish 
Shrimp balls 
Date pudding 

Le Café Siam -- Soi Sri Aksorn, a little out of the way/hard to find Has both a French and a Thai menu. In a converted old house on a quiet side street. (2002)

Cauliflower soup w/lobster 
Salmon w/potato and horseradish cream 
Chocolate mousse 

Calderazzo *-- Langsuan New, stylish. Popular among the upscale, well-dressed Thai. Very good Italian. Nice owner.  (2004) 

Cream of Pumpkin soup 
Spinach salad w/honey tomatoes and eggplant dressing 
Fried ricotta w/roasted peppers 
Mushrooms on polenta 
Cured salmon 
Spinach and ricotta ravioli 
Sea bass 
Baked eggplant w/mozarella and tomato 
Pasta w/ broccoli, chili and pancetta
Pasta w/pesto 
Pizza w/mascarpone cheese and prosciutto 
Pizza Napolitano 
Apple cinammon torte 
Mixed nut gelato 

Cao Dien -- Sathorn soi 12 Stylish Vietnamese restaurant. Good food. Friends who have lived in Vietnam called this the best Vietnamese food in Bangkok.  (2003) Note: I ate there prior to living in Vietnam.  Not sure how I would judge it now. 

Fried and fresh spring rolls 
Chicken soup
Fried rice 
Crepes 

The Cedar -- Sukhumvit, Soi 49. Lebanese. Restaurant has a decided Middle Eastern feel. Has a good reputation. Food was good. (2002)

Pita w/ garlic mousse 
Felafel 
Hummus 
Beef shawarma 
Sambusek cheese rolls 
Ratatouille 
Chicken shawarma 
Lamb fateh 
Chicken w/ spicy sauce 
Kofteh kebab 
Green beans w/ tomato 
Lamb shank
Labneh
Taboulleh

Celadon – At Sukothai hotel, Sathorn Hip, airy, lots of windows, very good service.  (2003)

Vegetables in curry w/ shrimp 
Fried shrimp 
Tom kha plaa 
Duck curry 
Vegetables and seafood in oyster sauce
Fish fillet
Grilled shrimp
Taro in coconut milk

Champrhen* -- off of Sathorn, across from Thai boxing center Old-style Chinese restaurant. Famous for its roast chicken. Maybe a little tired.  (2001)

Roast chicken 
Shark's fin soup
Noodles w/fried fish Fish cakes
Curried scallops 
Fried bean fritters 

China House -- Part of the Oriental, located in old colonial building across the street. Attentive service, large menu, excellent food. Reasonably priced, but not a bargain. (2003)

Fried crab rolls 
Lobster wonton soup 
Peking duck/duck in chili sauce 
Seafood noodles 
Beef w/ pepper sauce 
Mango pudding 
Sago and pumpkin in coconut milk 

The Chinese Restaurant* -- Hyatt Erawan Located on first floor of major hotel. Attracts Thai ladies who lunch. Large assortment of excellent dim sum. (2002)

Dim sum sampler 

Crepes & Co. – Sukhumvit Soi 24? Pleasant, casual, very good for brunch. Can sit outdoors in garden. (2002)

Pancakes 
Crepe w/ mushrooms and cheese 
Crepe chasseure 
Cheese bread 
Mango lassi 

Cy'An-- Metropolitan Hotel, Saathorn Road, next to the Banyan Tree. (March 2004) In new ultra-modern hotel. Can dine by pool or in white (cafeteria like) interior dining room. Moorish flavored food. Very good, sharp tastes. Inventive and stylish presentations. Expensive for Bangkok. 

Tapas (salt cod fritters, tomato gazpacho, grape gazpacho, anchovies and peppers, ham, vegetables) 
Artichoke soup 
Moorish seafood stew 

Dairy Queen *-- Thonburi.  In a Thai neighborhood down the street from our friend Mark. Large, mostly outside and on the river. Wide selection of excellent Thai food. (2002)

Chicken w/cashew nuts 
Fried fish 
Mixed vegetables
Fried fish cakes
Tom yum goong

Da Mimi -- Sukhumvit Soi 22, across from Imperial Queen's Park Same owners/chef as La Piola. Small, pleasant restaurant w/wonderful Italian food, especially pastas and meats. It’s a set menu. (2003)

Italian meats w/melon 
Roast beef 
Antipasta 
Marinated seafood 
Risotto w/prawns 
Pasta w/mushroom cream sauce 
Ravioli in meat sauce 
Tiramisu

Delicatezza* -- on Thong Lor, just past soi 17 Small Italian restaurant in a converted shophouse. Excellent food, but service can be slow due to a small kitchen. Terrific for celebrations in which you can rent out the restaurant.  (2002)

Smoked salmon 
Parma ham and salami 
Salad nicoise 
Spaghetti bosciola 
Spaghetti w/spicy tomato sauce and eggplant 
Spaghetti w/mushroom cream sauce 
Snowfish 
Osso Bucco 
Salmon alla Livornese 
Tiramisu

Dubliner -- on Sukhumvit, near Soi 22 See bar section below. An Irish bar with a full menu w/ lots of excellent (non-pub) choices. (2002)

Fish fingers 
Salmon and asparagus salad 
Chicken tempura 
Caesar burger 
Burger w/blue cheese and red onion jam 

Dynasty – Chinese restaurant, in Sofitel hotel towards airport.  Upscale, popular with Thai politicians. Private rooms. (2002)

Lobster salad (w/blinking electric eyes for the lobster) 
Roast duck and pork 
Mixed vegetables
Watercress w/ garlic 
Mushroom soup 
Steamed fish in soy sauce

Eat Me -- Soi Pi Pat, just off of Convent Beautiful small restaurant upstairs on a small soi. Friendly Australian owner. Hosts lots of art shows. Can eat outside in nice weather. Eclectic cuisine. Menu changes, with new dishes substituting for old favorites. Yet, all consistently excellent.  Fascinating cocktails and great dessert shots -- melted mars bar and vodka. One of our all time favorites. (01/09)

Cocktails include: Fig and Ginger martini; Apple, rosemary, vanilla martini 
Grilled mushroom salad 
Charred sea scallops with broadbeans and lemon oil 
Pear, cheese, truffle oil salad 
Grilled haloumi cheese and fennel salad 
Foccacia w/ salmon 
Spicy potatoes 
Spicy mushroom gambas 
Spicy shrimp and onions 
Avocado, orange salad w/miso and wasabi dressing 
French fries w/ homemade ketchup 
Seared tuna on mango/avocado salsa 
Double roasted duck with cherry stock and cranberry couscous 
Double spicy nyonya prawns with green papaya and lime 
Okonomiyaki --like a Japanese noodle omelette 
Fried snowfish w/ chili nut sauce 
Duck w/ cherry sauce 
Trio of risottos w/salmon and softshell crab 
Crab cakes 
Fish and chips
Salmon w/miso sauce
Grilled eggplant bocconcini cheese stack 
Cumin rubbed prawns w/coconut chili salad 
Salmon w/lemon rind and capers 
Stuffed red snapper 
Truffled mashed potatoes 
Sticky date pudding w/ butterscotch sauce 
White chocolate cheesecake 
White chocolate tart w/berries 
Flourless chocolate cake 
Chocolate mousse 
Lemongrass crème brulee 

Eating Rice, Drinking Tea -- in the Conrad Hotel on Wittayu. On second floor of hotel. Japanese. Good bento lunches. (March 2004)

Tempura Sushi (variety) 
Ramen
Ember – on Soi Langsuan in new building, near Lumpini.  Bangkok outlet of high-end Singapore restaurant.  Excellent food, marred somewhat by fellow patron dining with swastika on t-shirt.  (2009)

Enzo’s – Sukhumvit 39 Nice, quiet.  (2002)

Arucola salad w/prosciutto 
Pasta w/chicken, parmesan, walnuts amatriciana 

FABB Fashion Café – on corner of Soi Lang Suan and Ploem Chit Italian and Thai. (2001)

Shrimp and noodles, but watch for the innards

Garage -- in All Season's Place (2nd floor) down the street from the Embassy American-style hamburger joint. (2003)

Cheeseburger

Gianni’s* – on Soi Tonson, behind the U.S. Embassy off of Sukhumvit. Fancy Italian. Italian chef who visits the tables. Large menu. Popular date spot. Turns out a friend is a part-owner, though we did not know that when we ate there.  (2003 – but still around as of 2013)

Seafood soup 
Caesar salad
Onion soup 
Chicken stuffed with ham and mushrooms 
Pasta w/ pesto 
Lobster ravioli in safron sauce 
Penne w/ tuna and tomato sauce
Spinach ravioli in butter and sage 
Pear Tart – very good
Yoghurt mousse w/ caramel sauce

Giusto -- Sukhumvit Soi 23. Up street, opposite side from Soi Cowboy. Sleek, modern building. Chef comes from Ma Be Ba. Another good Italian restaurant. (2002)

Seafood soup
Vegeterian lasagna

Greyhound* – just off Sala Daeng and in Emporium mall. Chic. Black and white décor. East/west cuisine. Questionable service. Liz likes more than I do. (2003)

Hainanese chicken w/three sauces 
Cheeseburger 
Spinach eggplant lasagna 
Spinach salad 
Caesar salad 
French onion soup
Tom yum goong
Orange cake
Banana yoghurt smoothie

Harmonique -- Charoen Krung Soi 34, close to the Oriental Pretty, family run restaurant. Located close to the river hotels, the clientele is mostly farang. Very good food. Interesting menu with a few dishes not offered at other Thai restaurants frequented by Westerners. (01/08)

Lemongrass chicken 
Crab stuffed mushrooms 
Shrimp rolls 
Fried bananas w/ lemon sauce 
Crab meat w/ curry 
Shrimp curry penang 
Red curry w/chicken
Steamed fish w/lime
Pork larb 
Fried fish in sweet-sour sauce w/ crispy basil 
Morning glory 
Oysters in butter and garlic 
Banana almond shake 

Hong Seng* -- Nonthaburi, north of Ko Kret On the Chao Phraya, across from Ko Kret. Out of the way, little Thai place. (2002)

Tot man plaa 
Whole fried fish
Salted fried chicken
Omelette
Crab w/curry 
Tom yum plaa 

Indian Hut – A go to place on a rainy night -- ordered delivery all the time.  Very tasty. Variety of Indian food you don’t always see in the states. Affordable. (2002)

Naan 
Cheese naan 
Missi Roti –spicy bread 
Paneer Shaslik – Cheese 
Prawn Masala 
Cauliflower curry 
Noori Lasoori Kebab – chicken 
Chicken Biryani 
Lamb kebab 
Vegetable samosa 
Lamb samosa 
Lamb vindaloo 
Eggplant curry 
Rogan Josh
Lentil curry

Indigo – small soi off of Sala Daeng French. Beautiful restored house. Great looking bar. Good food. (2002)

“creole” tuna salad – My mistake, I thought it was tuna steak, it was tuna fish 
Tiger prawns 
Steak w/ bernaise 
Lamb in mustard crust 
Bread pudding w/ vanilla ice cream 
Crepe suzette w/ vanilla ice cream 

Jang Won -- off of Sukhumvit Soi 12, in a mall of Korean restaurants and shops Korean barbecue. Private rooms upstairs. Probably about the same quality as other Korean restaurants in the mall, but they're all good. (2002)

Bul Go Ki 
Grilled beef 
Kimchi 
Vegetables 

Jesters -- at the Peninsula Hotel, in Thonburi Modern, fusion, eclectic restaurant in one of the nicest hotels in the world.  Particularly good for desserts. A great meal with great views over the Chao Praya.  (2004)

Seared sea scallops w/ mushroom and truffle oil 
Green pea soup
Lobster tempura 
Soft shell crab 
Rack of lamb w/Indian potatoes 
Confit of duck w/Indian spices 
Snow fish 
Grilled swordfish w/barbecued pork and sesame ginger vegetables 
Sesame snaps w/mascarpone ice cream and mango 
Black rice and pumpkin custard w/caramel 
Raspberries gratineed w/white chocolate sabayon 

Jim Thompson House – nearby, off of Ploenchit Beautiful surroundings at the house. Outdoor café. Small menu, but basic Thai and Western food.  Easy place for a quick bite, particularly for the harried tourist.  (2002)

Noodle soup w/ chicken 
Noodle soup w/ wonton 

Kaanicha -- Soi 11, near Nana Located off the street, near the Nana station. Popular with long-term expatriates. (2002)

Duck curry 
Bua thoong 
Pork w/ pepper 
Shrimp w/curry 

Kalaprapuek* - The original on Thanon Pramuan, off of Sathorn Eat outdoors in garden in back. Good for groups. Very tasty. Not touristy. American Embassy local staff recommend it.  As of mid-2000s, several branches.  (2003)

Dumplings w/ barbecued pork 
Chicken sate 
Fish in custard 
Larb Duck curry 
Roti 
Fried fish cakes
Custard apple ice cream 
Pumpkin 
Sweet sticky rice w/ shrimp

Kalaprapruek* in All Seasons Place, on Witthayu.   Opened in 2003 in the mall across from the Embassy. Modern décor. Excellent food, including some Thai-Chinese dishes not available at some places.

Green curry w/roti Grilled beef 
Pork sate
Taro dumplings w/pork and crab
Vietnamese pancake 
Larb gai 
Chinese broccoli salad 
Noodles w/vegetables, chicken and dill 
Rice w/taro and smoked duck 
Noodles with mushrooms and chicken 
Khao Soi 
Apple crumble 
Malted milk ice cream 

Katak* -- where Rompo was off of Soi Langsuan, behind Ma Be Ba Good lunch place for Isaan style fried chicken and somtam. (2002)

Fried chicken
Somtam
Noodles with seafood

Khrua naj Baan* – on Soi Lang Suan near Lumpini Popular with local Thais. Display of fish, shellfish in front. Semi-outdoor kitchen.  I used to go for lunch after a run in Lumpini.  (2003)

Tom Yum Goong 
Whole fish fried w/ garlic and mango sauce 
Whole fried fish w/garlic and pepper 
Steamed cottonfish w/soy and herb sauce 
Watercress and garlic 
Crab omelette 
Stirfried catfish w/ pepper and garlic
Noodles w/ mixed seafood 
Salted fried chicken 

Kozo Sushi – Sala Daeng, near Patpong All you can eat sushi. Pretty good. Also hot dishes. Rather crowded, but dishes go around on a conveyor belt.   (2002)

Krajiab – Soi Langsuan (already closed) Uncrowded, modern décor. Waitress had cute baby. Mixture of Thai regional cuisine. (2002)

Grilled crispy fish w/ turmeric and spicy lime sauce 
Pork and coconut on fried rice crackers 
Tofu and pork pepper sauce w/ vegetables
Shrimp noodles w/ gravy

Kuppa – Sukhumvit Soi 16.  Upscale, stylish, European/American food with a few Thai specialities. Comfortable. Popular with expat crowd for brunch. Always one of our favorites.  Now, a new location.  (October 2007)

Prawn bisque
Greek salad 
Roasted vegetable salad 
Calamari
Steak w/ mashed potatoes 
Gai yang 
Moo yang 
Yam nua 
Som tam 
Pumpkin soup 
Roast beef sandwich 
Pizza w/chorizo 
Blue eye cod w/mashed potatoes and mango salsa 
Pizza w/duck 
Crispy duck and mushroom risotto 
Apple pie 
Bread and butter pudding 

Langsuan Grill and Pub* – small soi behind the embassy Nice place for lunch. Set lunches. Largely Thai clientele. (2002)

Noodles w/ beef and soy sauce 
Fish curry 
Duck curry 
Shrimp w/ basil and pepper 

La Piola -- First floor store front on Sukhumvit Soi 13 Small, family run. Family style. Excellent, simple Italian food. High quality ingredients. Good place for a group.   Had my birthday there in 2002.  (2003)

Antipasta 
Italian meats and melon 
Gnocchi w/vegetables 
Panna cotta 

Le Banyan -- Sukhumvit Soi 8 In a garden setting. Romantic, traditional feeling French restaurant. Attentive service. Excellent food. Pressed duck is a presentation.  (2002)

Lobster salad w/eggplant, tomato and preserved lemon 
Mussels in white wine 
Pressed duck w/armagnac sauce 
Chocolate mousse 
Crème brulee 

Le Bouchon -- Patpong 2 Small French restaurant, tucked in between sex bars and tourist stalls. Good food, pretty décor. A little cramped.  (2002)

Scallop and leek tart 
Beef fillet w/ bernaise 

Le Jardin*-- Ratchadamri, in the Peninsula Place mall. In middle of mall, garden setting. Popular with hi-so Thai, especially for weekday lunches. (2009)

Chicken and shrimp noodles 
Fried tofu and taro 
Mango and sticky rice 

Lemongrass – Sukhamvit, Soi 24 Popular w/ the hotel crowd, in all the guidebooks. I first went while backpacking in 1991.  Beautiful décor. More expensive for Thai food, but still very reasonable. Interesting menu. Food initially was very good, not as strong the last couple of times we visited. (2003)

Pomelo salad 
Eggplant salad 
Peppers stuffed w/ ground pork and shrimp 
Omelette w/ crispy pork and spicy basil 
Fried Pomfret w/ chili sauce 
Banana flower salad 
Duck 
Mixed vegetables

Le Normandie -- at The Oriental. The best of both worlds: fine French food w/Thai service. You can eat well without being self-concious about your manners. Beautiful view over the river. Very expensive.  (2002)

Smoked salmon w/ caviar Gazpacho 
Scallop salad 
Duck w/ caramelized figs 
Cheese plate (rebolochon, blue, goat) 
Champagne sorbet 
Apple tart
White and dark chocolate mousse 

Les Moulin -- Soi Langsuan Small. Friendly French chef takes your order. Very gallic menu. (2003)
French onion soup 
Roasted goat cheese salad 
Salmon in lime, tarragon sauce 
Steak in Rocquefort sauce

Liu -- in the Conrad on Wittayu New, Hong Kong-style dim sum restaurant. Very stylish. (2003)

Dim sum variety (shrimp, pork, vegetables etc.) 

Lord Jim's -- on the second floor of the Oriental hotel Beautiful décor overlooking the Chao Praya. Great service and wonderful seafood. Innovative dishes. Terrific decor. Expensive. Great for a special evening. (01/08) 

Crab cakes w/mango vinegar salsa 
Calamari tower w/caponata 
Spiced salmon fillet on sweet corn potato mash w/eggplant and olive marmalade and herb butter 
Goat cheese cannelloni on apple/carrot slaw 
Seared tuna w/artichokes and mushrooms w/wasabi mashed potatoes 
Bouillibaise 
Yellow fin on apple celeriac mash 
Hazelnut tiramisu
Ice cream cassata pie 
Rhubarb donut w/grand marnier "milkshake" 
Chocolate fondue cake w/vanilla ice cream 

The Madison – in the Four Seasons Upscale Steak house. Hotel chic, not like US steak houses. Good steaks, but not US steakhouse quality. Expensive for Bangkok. Good place to sit for Sunday brunch.  (2002 for steak, 2009 for brunch)

Salmon, mozzarella and tomato, smoked fish salad, seafood salad 
Sirloin

Ma Be Ba* – Soi Langsuan Bizarre décor – Hefneresque, like the Star Wars cantina and the Grotto at the Playboy mansion. Nice Italian chef. Plus, a Filipino band that plays soft rock from the 60s. (2003)

Calzone 
Cream of artichoke soup 
Rolled eggplant w/ proscuitto 
Parma ham w/ figs -- good, but could have used a few more figs
Watercress, gorgonzola and pear salad 
Morel and asparagus risotto 
Squid ink pasta w/lobster in brandy cream sauce
Snow fish w/ red onion/wine sauce 
Spinach ravioli 
Eggplant lasagna 
Penne arabiata w/sausage 
Pizza w/ quattro formaggi 
Sausage salad 

Maha Naga -- Sukhumvit Soi 29. Just opened in 2003. Large, with indoor and outdoor seating. Artsy and upscale. Modern take on Thai dishes. Good, but somewhat mixed.

Tom yum goong (w/wontons)
Beef soup 
Softshell crab 
Lamb
Pork loin w/som tom
Snow fish in chili sauce
Lobster in black pepper pasta

Mee and You Noodles -- at the Hyatt Erawan Small noodle place downstairs. Lots of noodles. Clean. Wide-selection.  (2002)

Pad Kee Mao w/Shanghai noodles
Vegetable dumplings

Mes Amis -- Sukhumvit Soi 53, Thonglor 5 On a small, green sidestreet. Modern, sleek, French restaurant. Good French food, a bit lighter and less complicated than many French restaurants. (2001)

Grilled shellfish salad 
Chilled pumpkin orange soup 
Beef tenderloin w/port sauce 
Coffee crème brulee 

New York Steakhouse -- in the Marriott Very good steaks, almost as good as a top-flight American steakhouse. They make a mean martini. As expensive as US steakhouse because the meat is imported from the States. (2003)

Caesar salad 
T-bone 
Filet mignon 
Hash browns 
Potato wedges 
Bread pudding 
Cheesecake 

Nipa -- in the Landmark Hotel, on Sukhumvit Traditional Thai décor w/music in the evenings. A hotel Thai restaurant geared towards foreigners. Nice food. Also, has cooking classes.  (2002)

Tom Kha Gai 
Chu Chii shrimp (shrimp curry)

Nippon Tei -- in Jetro building on Ratchdamri next to DCM's compound.  Large Japanese menu, popular with Japanese diplomats. One of the best Japanese options in town. (2003)

Sushi 
Sashimi 
Shrimp tempura 
Broiled salmon
Edamame
Soba noodles
Green tea ice cream

Nugan Lee Lang Suan* -- Chinese restaurant on corner of Langsuan. Mostly outdoor seating, very casual. Largely Thai and Chinese clientele. Food is OK. (2002)

Grilled shrimp 
Morning glory
Tom Yum Goong 

O'Reilly's -- Irish pub Good food for ordering in. Pub grub. (2002)

Steak and Guinness pie 
Shepard's pie 

Oriental Cooking School -- part of the Oriental, a shuttle boat across the river Cooking school. Watch preparation, more than actually cooking. Good explanations and descriptions of cooking practices. Excellent food. Expensive. (2002)

Caramelized pepper shrimp 
Shrimp curry w/ pineapple 
Beef curry, country style 
Catfish w/tamarind dip 
Smoked eggs w/ tamarind dip 

Pan Pan* – Soi Langsuan Italian. Inexplicably popular with upscale Thai. OK, but better Italian options available. Wine – not very good. (2001)

Salad w/ pomelo, apple and prosciutto 
Broth w/ tortellini
Shrimp and avocado salad
Pasta pomodoro and ametriciana –pretty good
Spaghetti in gorgonzola sauce
Pasta/chicken w/ cream sauce – Ok, but heavy 
Pizza w/mushroom and onion – better than expected
Calzone 
Mussels arrabiata 
Penne arrabiata 
Pasta w/ mushroom and tomato 
Ice cream – icy, not creamy Ice cream sundae 

Paparazzi -- Soi Ruam Rudee Italian and pizza in Chateau d'Bangkok (2001)

Vegetarian pizza
Mushroom and ham pizza
Caesar salad

Park Avenue -- Lang Suan near Ploenchit Upscale steakhouse. Nice bass and piano combo, pretty good steaks. Expensive. (2002)

Caesar salad
Porterhouse steak

Patara -- Sathorn Soi 11 Excellent Thai food with a few different dishes. Outdoors, looks kind of like a Bennigans. Inside, however, a nice atmosphere with large windows overlooking little garden. (2003)

Softshell crab w/somtam 
Shrimp w/spicy pepper sauce 
Seared tuna in pandamus leaves 
Duck w/thai basil and chili 
Green curry w/chicken 
Shrimp tempura w/crispy morning glory 
Steamed sea bass w/lime and garlic 
Seabass w/mushrooms 
Curried crab and sea bass mousse 
Sauteed mushrooms 
Tofu larb 
Lamb skewers 
Chocolate cake w/mango sorbet 
Mango w/sticky rice 
Passionfruit gratinee 

Pen -- on Chan Road, off of Chong Nonsii Sino-Thai seafood. Recommended highly by Asian Wall Street Journal. Staff is rather stone-faced but attentive. Excellent seafood, varied menu. (2003)

Vegetable pepper shrimp soup 
Morning glory with peppers 
Sea bass grilled in banana leaf 
Fried parrot fish w/fried garlic, peanuts and mango sauce 
Fresh guava

Peppers, Soi 1 off of Soi Langsuan, behind Embassy Casual, American style lunch place. Very authentic, basic Western lunch items, like wraps, salads, soups etc. Nice Thai-Australian owner, manager. Small. Catering. (2003)

Cream of broccoli soup
Potato leek soup
Roast beef sandwich
Mushroom chicken pie 
Caeser Salad w/ grilled chicken 
Moussaka 
Chicken caesar wrap 
Salmon wrap 
Chicken tandoori wrap 
Grilled vegetable wrap
Carrot cake 
Sticky date pudding w/ caramel sauce 
Mango cheesecake -- amazing

Pete’s Tavern – Soi Ruam Rudee Western style food. Steaks and seafood. Lots of wood in the décor. Food is solid, not great. (2002)

Smoked duck
Steak

Phrik Khii Nuu – Sala Daeng, near Liz’s gym Good food. Nice staff. Mix of farangs and Thai. Very spicy. Good menu. Cheap. A favorite with my predecessor.  (2002)

Catfish salad 
Wing bean salad 
Spicy sausages 
Morning glory w/ oyster sauce 
Pork balls 
Roasted eggplant salad 
Pad thai 
Caper curry w/ chicken
Red curry w/ chicken
Fried bread w/ shrimp
Fried fish cakes 
Omelette w/ ground shrimp 
Spicy fungus salad
Orange curry w/ shrimp 
Khao Soi – Burmese chicken curry 

Pho -- Silom, near the Dusit Thani One of several of a Vietnamese chain featuring fresh vegetables. Light, lean. (2002)

Chicken pho 
Pancake w/pork and mushrooms 
Beef grilled in King John's leaves (lalot)

The Pickle Factory – near Victory Monument Nice outdoor seating in a converted 60s style home. (2002)

Calamari 
Bruschetta w/crab 
Blue cheese caramelized onion pizza 
Pepperoni pizza 
Feta and onion pizza 

The Polo Club -  Members only. Traditional, old British feel. Lawn bowling. Extensive menu of Thai, Italian and French cuisine. Very good food. Spicy. (2001)

Whole fish 
Pomelo salad 
Larb 
Morning glory 
Sticky rice w/ mango 

Pomodoro – Sukhumvit, just past Soi Ruamrudee Pleasant, somewhat upscale Italian. More farang than Thai clientele – out of most young Thai’s price range. Cheaper than in the US, but high for Bangkok. Better Italian options available. (2002)

Stracciatella 
Mixed Italian meat and cheese platter 
Gnocchi w/ gorgonzola sauce 
Spaghetti amatreciana 
Pasta quattro formagio 

Raintree -- at the Plaza Athenee on Wittaju Large lunch buffet w/ Thai, western, Japanese dishes, and seafood. Lots of desserts.Nice, open dining area. Reasonably priced and good for a long work lunch. (2002)

Ramentei – On Sukhumvit Soi 33/1, a Soi filled with Japanese restaurants and a good British pub. Cheap, very Japanese noodle restaurant. (202)

Egg soup 
Pork, vegetable noodles 
Shrimp w/ chili sauce

Rang Mahal -- on top of the Rembrant hotel Bangkok's best and most expensive Indian restaurant. Beautiful views, traditional music, good service. Frequent destination. (2003)

Tandoori shrimp 
Tandoori salad 
Tandoori chicken 
Chicken curry 
Lamb samosa 
Chicken soup 
Shrimp w/asian spices 
Vegetable curry 
Lamb 
Lentils 
Kulcha stuffed with cheese 
Raita 
Carrot dessert 

Regent Shop -- In the Four Seasons Hotel on Ratjadamri Very nice gourment store that serves sandwiches, soups, salads. Very cheap for a Four Seasons hotel. (2003)

Mushroom soup 
Tomato soup 
Club sandwich 
Salmon sandwich 
Vegetable pita 

Rompo* -- behind Ma Be Ba on Soi Lang Suan Outdoor seating. Good for lunch. Can people watch as Thai office workers pass by. (2002)

Crab w/ egg and curry
Som tam
Gai yang
Yam plaa duk foo

Saffron -- on 59th floor of Banyan Tree restaurant. Beautiful view, great décor, stunning presentation. Food is good, but nothing out of the ordinary. (2002)

Banana leaf salad 
Steamed dumplings stuffed w/chicken 
Fried catfish salad 
Seafood noodles w/peppers and basil Green curry w/chicken 
Chu Chi lobster 

Sala Rim Naam -- at Oriental, across river Upscale Thai-style restaurant w/Thai dance show. Good for guests. (2002)

Yam Som O 
Tom yum goong 
Lemongrass chicken 
Mixed vegetables
Stuffed crab Duck curry 

Sara Jane’s* – Sindhorn building, next to Embassy (March 2004) Popular w/ Embassy people. Good for lunch. Well known for authentic and tasty Isaan cuisine. 

Grilled chicken –Gai Jaang 
Larb
Yam Tua Pluu
Carrrot salad
Fried cotton fish w/mango salad
Chicken w/cashews 
Som tam Tom yum goong 
Fried rice w/shrimp and basil 
Som tam w/green beans 
Grilled beef salad 
Sundried fried pork 
Grilled pork 
Watercress w/garlic 
Tapioca w/melon and coconut milk 
Coconut juice

Savoey* -- Suan Lum night market on Wittayu. Large branch of Bangkok based seafood restaurants. Fresh fish. Huge shellfish. Very good.  (2003)

Grilled jumbo prawns with garlic
Crab w/curry and eggs 
Spicy snakehead fish 
Pak Bung faj daeng 
Black sesame dumplings in ginger broth 

Seafood Market* -- Sukhumvit, soi 24, near Emporium Very large restaurant, popular with groups. Large variety of seafood, vegetables, and fruits laid out supermarket style. Diners choose ingredients and ask kitchen prepare one of 7 or 8 methods. Good, fresh seafood. Reasonable. A good place to people watch for the mix of Thai families and camera toting tourists. (2002)

Grilled snow fish 
Tom yam goong 
Yam wun sen w/ crab 
Morning glory 
Mushrooms and bean sprouts 
Whole red snapper, sweet and sour 

Sheraton Grand Sukhumvit Brunch buffet. Expensive for Thailand. Wide-selection of fruit, fish, Western foods, Thai food, dim sum Sushi Lots of desserts Liquid chocolate shooting out of a chocolate elephant’s snout. (2002)

Shintaro – Four Seasons Hotel. Excellent sushi. Japanese beers. Another favorite and frequent destination.  Great eggplant, as well.  (March 2004)

Spicy tuna roll 
Peppered tuna roll 
Eel and cream cheese roll 
Peppered crab roll 
Crab and cream cheese rolls 
Spicy salmon roll 
Grilled eggplant w/miso sauce 
Salmon teriyaki
Tuna, salmon rolls
Green tea ice cream
Black sesame custard

The Silk Road – at the Hotel Athenee, Tanon Wittayu Chinese restaurant.  (2002)

Dim sum 
Shark’s fin soup 
Morning glory w/ garlic 
Rice w/ duck, seafood, chicken 
Black pepper beef -- excellent

Silver Spoon *-- on the Chao Phraya near the UN conference center. You can sit outside over the river. Well known. Pretty good food. (2002)

Pak bung 
Fried cottonfish w/mango 
Tom Kha Gai
Larb Gai
Pork penang curry

Si Nguan Siri* -- on Witthayu, down street from Embassy and next to Plaza Athenee Popular lunch spot for local Thai workers. Not much on atmosphere, but typical Thai dishes. (2003)

Mixed vegetables
Fried, sundried pork
Fried rice w/northern sausage 
Chestnuts in coconut syrup 

Sirocco -- Lower Silom, near the river and Oriental. Large white building with dome on top. Latest entry into the rooftop dining category. Sit atop 64 story building with commanding views of Bangkok, particularly of the river. Nicely laid out with a live band and a bar with a 270 degree panorama of the city. Good mediterranean food, particularly for a trendy place that appeals based on its siting. Expensive. (2008)

Calamari 
Roasted pork w/mediterranean vegetables 

Smooth Curry – at the Hotel Plaza Athenee, Tanon Wittayu Thai. Good for hotel Thai food. (2002)

Tom Yum Goong -- the best 
Shrimp in tamarind sauce – very good, but it’s the entire shrimp, head and all 
Salmon penang 
Shrimp balls w/ mixed vegetables 

Spice Market – Four Seasons Hotel In beautiful, upscale hotel. Open, comfortable. Good for visitors who like plain or sweet food. (2002)

Leaves w/ roasted coconut, shallots, ginger, peppers, molasses, dried shrimp, lime 
Fried crab and shrimp 
Tom Yum Kung 
Fried fish w/ chili sauce 
Steamed sea bass w/lemon and herbs 
Stuffed prawn 
Chicken curry 
Beef w/ oyster sauce 
Mixed seafood 
Crab omelette
Chuchee shrimp 
Pak bung fai daeng (morning glory)
New rice porridge w/ coconut milk

Suda* -- Sukhumvit Soi 14, just off the main street. Large storefront, with semi-indoor seating. Popular with Thais and Westerners. Excellent Thai menu. (2007)

Chicken w/cashews and chili paste 
Red curry w/shrimp 
Green curry w/chicken 
Fried seabass w/tamarind curry sauce 
Omelette w/shrimp 
Tom kha gai 

Tanh Long – Soi Lang Suan Vietnamese. Stylish, trendy. Lots of young Thai.(2002)

Deep fried softshell crab w/ garlic and black pepper 
Stuffed squid Ho Chi Minh style 
Crab rolls 
Grilled prawns in pepper sauce 
Minced shrimp on sugar cane 
Spring rolls 
Whole fish with lemongrass 
Fried rice 
Marinated fish 

Water 1999 – Sukhumvit 39, we ordered delivery. (2002)

 Roasted duck 
Taiwan noodles 
Shrimp w/ XO sauce 
Spare ribs
Chicken soup

White Heart -- just off Soi Langsuan, near Central Department store Large Thai restaurant set off of the street. Variety of Thai dishes. Rooms for groups. (2002)

Fried fish cakes
Curried seafood
Shrimp rolls

The Whole Earth -- Soi Langsuan Many vegetarian items. Pretty, homey building. Usually, pretty empty, which is strange because the Chiang Mai branch is very popular. (2002)

Vegetable curry in banana leaf 
Whole fish w/ three flavors 
Green curry (vegetarian) 
Tofu in peanut sauce 
Mushroom and cashew stir fry 
Fresh spring rolls 
Fried spring rolls 
Chicken in pandanus leaf 
Morning glory
Sweet and sour pork 
Grilled shrimp and mango salad 

Witches Oyster House -- Ruam Rudee Western (largely British) menu. Excellent, fresh ingredients. Upscale. (2002)

Lobster bisque Beef and stilton pie 
Chicken breast stuffed w/sundried tomatoes and feta

Witches Tavern – northwest. Old saloon/tacky décor, but comfortable seating. Interesting looking drinks menu. (2002)

Cheeseburger-best in Bangkok, so far

Woodstock -- in Nana Plaza, tucked in among the girlie bars. Not a girlie bar, but pool tables and bar stools. Good burgers. Noted some dancers seemingly enjoying some downtime between shifts in other bars.  (2002)

Cheeseburger 

Yok Yor* -- boat on the Chao Phraya Goes up and down the river for a dinner cruise. Largely Thai clientele. A little too large.

Fried, dried beef 
Shrimp balls w/ crispy basil
Japanese style fish 
Fried fish w/ mushrooms 
Chicken curry
Spring rolls
Stuffed, grilled squid

Yok Yor Seafood*-- on other side of Chao Phraya, take boat from Thaksin bridge Outdoor dining. Pick your own fish. Live Thai pop performers. (2002)

Tom yum goong-spicy
Fried fish w/ garlic 
Steamed cotton fish w/ herbs
Broccoli w/oyster sauce

Zanotti - on Sala Daeng Very nice Italian. Upscale dining, near Patpong night market. Topnotch (2003)

Caesar salad 
Grilled sea bass 
Seafood soup 
Chicken, rosemary calzone 
Pasta w/lobster and thyme 
Cheese plate 

(Not sure of name) Authentic Thai*– maybe too authentic. Only Thai diners. Menu heavy on the innards. (2001)

Raw shrimp in fish sauce w/ raw garlic
Som tam w/black crabs and fermented fish

Bars:

87 -- bar/restaurant in the Conrad. DJs spinning music. Not as hip as when first opened. Lots of older white men with younger Thai women, though it still attracts groups of younger Thai as well. (March 2004)

Admakers *-- also a restaurant. Live music. Fairly low key and you can hear people talk. (March 2004)

Aqua -- also serves tapas, in the courtyard at the Four Seasons. Great atmosphere. (March 2004)

Bamboo Bar -- in Oriental Hotel. Very good live jazz. Upscale and popular. (2003)

Bamboo Beer Bar -- Soi Nana. Mix of tourist couples, lonely male farangs, bar girls, and pool players. Apparently, popular with the local Western high schoolers. Varied patronage makes people watching interesting. (2002)

Bar@494 -- in Hyatt Erawan. Metallic décor. Lots of appetizers during happy hour. (2002)

Barbican -- Soi Thaniya. On a soi filled with Japanese sex bars. Sleek, modern, attractive bar. Popular with farang. (2002)

Bed -- Soi 11. 60s vision of the future. Circular, plastic. Two sections, a loud, crowded bar for people to look at other people and a restaurant area where you sit and eat on beds. Waitresses dressed as nurses. (2003, but heard closing in 2013)

Blue Lakes -- Swedish-Finnish bar near, but not in Soi Cowboy. Small, hole in the wall. Not many customers, but a dart board, TV, and lots of Swedish and Finnish beers. (2002)

Brew Arena* -- Sukhumvit soi 55 (Thong Lor). Huge venu, with fake Mt. Rushmore and stage show. However, only one beer on tap. Food actually pretty good. (2002)

Brown Sugar* -- on Thanon Sarasin across the street from Lumpini Park. Good jazz, well air conditioned, popular. Mainly Thai, but some farang clientele. (2003)

Charcoal Grey*-- on Sukhumvit. American-style bar, with a Thai cover band playing American rock tunes. Thai clientele. (2002)

Diplomat -- in the Conrad on Wittayu. Stylish, high-brow foreigner set. Beautifully designed. (March 2004)

Faith Bar -- Soi __, off Sukhumvit. Dark, modern, two stories. Two bars and pool table upstairs. (2002)

Gig Grocery* -- on Sukhumvit Soi 16. Lots of college and post-college Thais in a casual bar filled with beanbags, pillows and tobacco hookas. Drinks and a food menu as well. Acid jazz music. Now defunct.

Horizon Sky Lounge -- on 25th floor of Westin Grand Sukhumvit. Good place for Karaoke. Private rooms, wide selection of bands. (2002)

Langsuan outdoor area* -- middle of soi Langsuan (near our apartment). Outdoor dining and small bars. Popular with local Thai workers. A variety of snacks and one of the little bars sells pitchers of beer. (2002)

The Met -- at the new Metropolitan hotel. Very chic style. Extensive cocktail menu. Only there early in the evening, so can't tell about clientele. (March 2004)

Ministry of Sound* -- huge, modern dance club, brought to Bangkok by international club owners. Very popular. Lots of black. The fashionable and attractive. All this plus $3.75 beers (expensive by Bangkok standards) and ear splitting techno music. (2002, though I think closed a while ago)

Q Bar -- off of Sukhumvit. Fashionable, for the black-wearing crowd. Very crowded, with a small dance floor/scrum area. Excellent selection of liquor. (2003)

Rivas -- in Sheraton Grand Sukhumvit. For hotel guests. Cheesy bands. Lots of hookers. (2002)

Room -- on Sarasin, next to Brown Sugar. Hopping with young hi so Thai. (2002)

Shenanigans -- Irish bar on Sala Daeng. (2002)

Soi Dogs -- Beer bar off Asok (2001)

Spassos -- in Hyatt Grand Erawan. One word: hookers. (2002)
Sukothai -- hip hotel that has different events. Chi chi. (2003)

Syringa* -- converted house. Very pretty, with outside seating in good weather. Chic and uncrowded. Small menu and often out of mixers.  (2003)

Tantra* -- in Pan Pacific hotel. Also, specializes in house, electronica music. Lots of dancing. Trendy. (2003)

Tapas* -- Sukhumvit soi 4. Its next to Patpong on the gay soi, but it is not a gay bar. Instead, its loud and full of young Thai. (2002)

Vertigo -- on top of the Banyan tree, outdoors, 62 floors up. Panoramic views, with a full restaurant menu. Like many places in Bangkok, not the best martini. (2008)

Warbler -- around corner from Nana plaza; run of the mill watering hole (2002)

Wongs -- off of Sathorn. Hole in the wall. Has food, haven't eaten it. Run by a sino-Thai with a great collection of old (1970s) music videos. (2003)

Woodstock -- in midst of Nana Plaza, one of the prime girlie bar locations in town. However, Woodstock is just a bar, though it has a few bar girls loitering around. Good jukebox, pool. Good burgers. (2003)

World Trade Center Beer Garden* -- in front of World Trade Center mall. Several beer companies set up outdoor seating with music and pitchers/bottles of beer. Lively and fun with Thai bar snacks and grilled foods. (2002)

Zarazine* -- on Thanon Sarasin across the street from Lumpini Park. A few doors down from Brown Sugar. Live music, of varied quality. Like many Thai bars, it has an extensive drink menu, including many drinks they can't make. (2003)

Z/Ry Haus -- On the Sarasin strip. New, bright and clean. Only been there at happy hour. (2002)

Brunches:

Café @2 -- Second floor of Conrad Hotel on Wireless. Good combination of Thai, Western and Indian specialties.

Dusit Thani -- Chinatown Restaurant. Wide variety of Dim Sum and other Chinese specialties. Nice, traditional Chinese atmosphere.

Four Seasons -- all you could want. Best brunch in the world. A martini bar, grilled lobster, caviar, sirloins, a foie gras bar, juices, individual dessert souflees etc. The Four Seasons also has a great high tea.

Sheraton Grand Sukhumvit -- Lots of fish, cheeses and a chocolate elephant spewing hot chocolate out of its nose. Large, but very good.

Sukothai -- in beautiful, trendy hotel. Great bisques and desserts. Foie gras also popular. A variety of drinks, plus light jazz. Also, a chocolate buffet that starts in the mid-afternoon.

Hyatt -- On Saturdays too. Nice. Good desserts. 

OUTSIDE OF BANGKOK 

Chiang Mai 

Aroon Rai -- just outside old city wall Northern Thai cuisine. In most guides. Possible source of my giardia and dissentery. (2001)

Khao Soi
Northern sausage

Chiang Mai Cultural Center, Khon Toke Tourist show, but nice. Set up dining on floor w/ performances in the middle. (2002)

Sticky rice
Fried bananas
Fried chicken 
Nam phrik ong 
Pork rinds 
Pork stew 

The Gallery -- on the other side of the Ping river. Also a gallery. On the river. Good northern Thai specialties.  (2003)

Steamed seabass 
Chicken and vermicelli in banana leaf 
Tom kha gai
Vegetables and noodles
Duck curry

The Gourmet -- on other side of river Near many nice furniture, art stores. Quiet during the day. Picks up at night. Nice views of the river. (2003)

Shrimp chinese style 
Egg rolls
Noodles with chicken and gravy

Just Khao Soi -- downtown (March 2004) As the name implies, it only serves Khao Soi, the northern Thai curry-noodle speciality. Attractive setting that appeals to foreigners (the prices keep out most locals). Large portions with plenty of meat (chicken or beef). You can add all sorts of condiments. 

Chicken Khao Soi 

Regent, Thai Restaurant -- North of Chiang Mai Beautiful Four Seasons Hotel. View overlooking rice paddies and mountains. Excellent breakfast buffet and wonderful room service. Expensive. (2003)

Chicken penang 
Banana leaf salad 
Herbaricum salad 
Fried spring rolls 
Kaeng Hang Le -(northern style pork curry) 
Softshell crab 
Softshell crab sandwich 
Khao soi 
Tom yum goong
Eggplant salad
Calamari 
Corn soup 
Pumpkin custard 
Banana smoothie 

Regent, Western lunch place -- North of Chiang Mai See above. More casual, next to the pool. (2003)

Singapore noodle soup 

The Whole Earth -- on Soi Sri Dornchai Beautiful old house -- like a tree house. Take your shoes off before entering. Combination Thai and Indian cuisine. Same owners as Whole Earth in Bangkok. (2002)

Spring rolls
Chicken satay 
Tofu w/mushrooms 
Tandoori shrimp 
Garlic Naan 
Whole snow fish, spicy 
Chicken masala
Chicken w/ cashews 

Hua Hin 

Brasserie d’Paris – Hua Hin on the beach Small French restaurant. Can dine on balcony overlooking ocean. Classier than many of the surrounding restaurants. Friendly French owner. (2002)

Crab Hua Hin 
Mixed salad
Sole 
Shrimp w/ curry 
Crème Brulee 

Palm – Hua Hin, at the Sofitel Very pretty, turn of the (19th) Century feel. International seafood menu. (2002)

Marinated prawns 
Rock lobster 
Tandoori garoupa 
Tiger prawns 
Mango compote w/ mangosteen sorbet 
Apple tart 

Lom Fang – Cha Am at the Regent Thai seafood. Pretty setting overlooking a pond. (2002)

Yam Som O 
Crab claws w/ chili paste 
Fried cottonfish w/ mango sauce 
Fried rice and fish in banana leaf 

Jomtien 

Pannya* -- on side of the road on Sukhumvit across from Ambassador City. Tiny roadside stand favored by American Citizen Services section FSNs on trips to Pattaya. Very, very spicy.(2003)

Crab omelette 
Jungle curry w/fish 

Ko Samet 

Sai Kaew* -- on Ao Prao beach. A small bungalow hotel with a beachfront restaurant. Nice Thai food that you can eat overlooking the ocean or under the stars. (2002)

Po Pia Thot 
Yam wun sen
Whole fish w/chili sauce 
Grilled fish and shrimp 
Penang chicken
Fried fish cakes
Seafood curry 
Sundried, fried pork 
Vegetables in oyster sauce

Muubaan Thalee -- resort on northside of the island. (2002)

Chicken larb 
Grilled fish and prawns 
Shrimp w/basil 
Satay Spring rolls 
Glass noodles baked w/shrimp 
Lemon tart 

Ko Samui 

Muang Kulaypan -- on Chaweng beach Right on the beach. Nice bar. (2002)

Villa Bianca -- in Bo Put beach On a charming street on a small, fairly quiet beach. Great view of moonlight on the ocean from outdoor seats. Italian food is pretty good, but service can be slow. (2002)

Pizza bread 
Three cheese pizza 
Grilled red snapper
Strawberry sorbet
Eclairs 

Mae Chaen 

Phuchai saj -- also a beautiful hotel, restaurant is outdoors around a pool on a hillside overlooking mountains and valleys. Thai food is pretty good. Western food is not the greatest. (2002)

Mushroom salad 
Fried shitake mushrooms 
Pork and palm heart salad 
Hangle curry 
Steak w/ pepper sauce
Lamb chops 
Blueberry cheesecake 
Banana cake 

Mae Sai 

JoJo -- small restaurant on main drag, near Burmese border. In guidebooks, but mostly appears to attract a local clientele. Large menu, with lots of ice cream. (2002)

Noodle soup w/pork 
Vanilla milkshake 

Mae Salong 

Sakura -- Yunnanese restaurant in Mae Salong resort. Real Yunnanese cuisine as Mae Salong is a Yunnanese town. (2002)

Mantou - steamed bread 
Shitake mushrooms 
Noodles mae salong (pork and vegetables)
Black chicken w/ ginger 

Mukdahan 

Chalong -- overlooking the Mekong, a little north of the main business area. One of a row of small seafood restaurants with a good view of the river and Laos. There can be a nice cool breeze in the evening. Fish is just out of the river. Friendly proprietess. (2001)

Grilled fish w/spicy dipping sauces 
Fried fish w/mango sauce 
Tom yum plaa

Noodle stand -- in small downtown area. One of many noodle stands, known for its homemade egg noodles. (2001)

Egg noodle wonton soup w/ pork 

Nakhon Phanom 

Noodle stand -- in downtown area, one block from river, near Indochinese market (2001)

 Beef noodles 
Pork dumplings (dim sum) 
Po pia tod (fried spring roll) 

Nong Khai 

Udom Rot -- located overlooking the Mekong next to the ferry to Laos Service wasn't that great, though they were repairing the roof after a recent storm. Not all of the menu was available, but we enjoyed what we ate. (2001)

Fish larb 
Fish curry 
Gai Yang 
Stir fried morning glory 

Phuket 

The Boat House – Kata beach Beautiful setting right on the beach. Kata is not as crowded or downmarket as Patong. One of the best wine selections in the world. (2012)

Seafood cakes
Shrimp 
Spicy beef tenderloin 
Sea bass in nutmeg butter sauce 
Lamb chops w/ five spices 
Mixed desserts – souffle, chocolate mousse, sorbet, fruits 
Banana tart 

Buffalo Steakhouse -- on Patong Beach Scandinavian steakhouse, filled with northern Europeans. Crowded during the high season. (2003)

Cabbage salad 
Steak

________, north of Patong Very pretty. Also right on the ocean. You sit outside as the tide crashes on the rocks. It’s at a campground (2002)

Crab in chili sauce 
Shrimp cakes 
Fish cakes 
Spring rolls 
Mixed vegetables
Tom Yum Goong

Krajok See, in Phuket Town Very quaint, romantic. Slightly hidden away. Next to a nice little gallery. (2002)

Chicken satay 
Battered shrimp 
Fish w/ chilis and basil 
Eggplant salad 

Marriott, north of airport Italian restaurant. Beautiful surroundings. Good food. Needs a service shakedown as it just opened. (2003)

Crostini w/mushrooms 
Fusilli amatriciana 

Ruen Thong -- at Dusit Laguna resort.  Very pretty, on the laguna in back of the hotel. Wooden frame building w/outdoor seating. Pleasant atmosphere, very good variety of Thai food. (2001)

Chicken satay 
Fish cakes 
Fried shrimp 
Mee krob w/shrimp in tangerine sauce 
Grilled cottonfish w/thai herbs and tamarind sauce 
Curried seafood mousse 
Prawns and vegetables in yellow curry 
Five spice chicken 

Salaloy -- on the ocean in Rawai beach. Casual, Thai seafood place. Nice for lunch overlooking the water. (2001)

Mussel salad
Seafood soup 
Fried sea bass w/garlic 

Tatonka -- behind Laguna resort on Surin beach, in small roadside mall complex Interesting, eclectic menu. German chef w/ native American décor. (2002)

Crab cake 
Sashimi spring roll 
Chicken quesadilla
Pollo ranchero 
Blackened pork 
Cheesecake w/ mango and passionfruit 
Jackfruit samosas

 __________, at spa at Banyan Tree, part of Laguna resort. Pretty, outdoor seating, by the pool. Light menu. (2001)

Miso soup w/ grouper 
Chicken yakitori 
Mango smoothie 

___________, in _______, on the south of the island Pretty, also on the beach. Quiet. Recommended by our driver. (2001)

Dried shimp in shrimp paste – wait out for this – it may have made me ill. 
Softshell crab w/ garlic and black pepper 
Tom Yung Goong 

Songkhla 

BP Samilan hotel restaurant -- nice view of beach, cheesy cover bands. Ok food. (2002)

Steamed snakehead fish w/peppers 
Green curry 
Chicken penang
Stir fried vegetables

_________ - on the lake, outdoor seating. Very good grilled lake fish (2002)

Grilled prawns 
Grilled garoupa 
Shrimp balls with vegetables, including sea bamboo 
Kaeng som 
Fried rice
Fried fish w/garlic
Steamed crabs 

Sukothai 

Dream Café -- in middle of downtown New Sukothai. Ok food. Interesting décor, a mix of kitchy knick knacks, like you would find in the US. Pretty good ice cream menu. (2002)

Wingbean salad
Steamed butterfish w/plum sauce
Eggplant with basil and shrimp 
Vanilla ice cream w/butterscotch and cookies 

Ubon Ratchatani 

Im Em -- downtown Modern Thai restaurant, popular with upscale residents, plus a few farang. Features a few Isaan specialties (2001)

Mee krob
Boiled fish w/ spicy sauce
Shrimp penang
Kale w/ oyster sauce

Lai Thong -- Nice hotel, downtown Buffet lunch at the ground floor restaurant.  Decent variety of Thai foods, with Isaan appetizers. (2001)

Udon Thani 

Al Elephant Blanc -- located downtown European restaurant run by a Frenchman. Popular with the local expatriates. Authentic food at very affordable prices. (2002)

Beef goulash

Wissada -- small hole in the wall near the government center. Small place, serving grilled chicken and som tam. Does a large turnover, plenty of take away. Very good grilled chicken. (2002)

Grilled chicken (Gai Yang) 

Yala 

Baan Khun Paa -- small restaurant, we went with local reps during Cong. Staff Del. Some nice local dishes. (2002)

Tom yam goong 
Blossoms w/garlic 
Pork and kale soup 
Fried tofu w/vegetables 
Stuffed shrimp w/crispy basil 
Fried fish 

VIETNAM 

Bac Giang 

Hai Dang - Probably nicest restaurant in provincial capital about 40 km north of Hanoi. Several private dining rooms set above lake. Food was ok, but I didn't like that the menu contained several endangered species -- porcupine, civet cat etc. (01/08)

Pumpkin buds w/garlic
Noodles w/vegetables
Chicken and mushroom hotpot 

Dalat

Evason Ana Mandara -- resort just on the outskirst of town. A collection of restored colonial era villas. Wonderful and inventive kitchen that makes full use of the high-quality local produce. Every single dish was excellent -- western, Vietnamese, and fusion. Though we usually like to go out and explore, the food was so good, that we never ventured out to eat. One of the best food values I've ever experienced. (8/09) 

Chicken pho 
Local jams -- strawberry, blackberry, ginger 
Spicy chicken club sandwich 
Hamburger 
Papaya salad with spicy seafood 
Lemongrass chicken 
Spicy tofu and mushroom wonton 
Spicy beef salad 
Pumpkin soup 
Beef with black pepper and lemongrass 
Apple streudel
Coconut agar agar and mango sorbet 
Grilled sapa over wasabi vegetables 
Steak Lemongrass
creme brulee 
Green tea chocolate mousse 
Tomato essence with cumin shrimp and salmon 
Soy marinated tofu with sesame drizzle 
Caramelized sapa with panadan rice 
Artichoke souffle 
Orange braised duck with tamarind sorbet 
Beef tenderloin with garlic almond reduction 
Home-made cottage cheese 
Assorted fruit and chocolate desserts 

Haiphong 

Dai Thong* -- downtown, mixed Vietnamese dishes. We went with a group of people living with AIDS and I spent more time trying to speak Vietnamese and less focused on the food. It seemed fine. (10/07)

Pumpkin buds and garlic
Steamed shrimp
Beef and vegetables
Spinach and oyster soup 

Hanoi 

Al Fresco's* -- on Lang Ha, right across the street from the Embassy. U.S.-style place, with everything from burgers to ribs to Italian. U.S. style menu and portion sizes. Food is not bad for what it is -- a replica of American casual dining. Seems to be popular with Vietnamese for lunch, though not cheap by their standards. Excellent ribs. (02/08)

Bacon, cheese, egg burger
Burrito
Pumpkin soup 
Ribs 

Au Lac Do Brazil -- Cao Ba Quat -- a block away from our apartment on a medium busy side street Brazilian steakhouse. Very high quality. Pleasant surroundings. As much as you can eat. Can bring your own wine for a six dollar corkage fee. Many expats, but also large groups of Vietnamese families. Not cheap, but you can eat your way into a bargain. (02/08)

Lots of meats on sticks.
Chicken, Sausage, Cuts of beef, shrimp, plus plenty of side dishes. 

Au Lac House -- 13 Tran Hung Dao -- In beautiful old, two-story colonial-era building. Lots of wood. You can sit outside on broad porch sheltered from busy street by trees. Attracts western guests. Better surroundings than food, though salads pretty tasty.(8/07)

Morning glory
Cashew chicken
Spicy beef 
Banana flower salad 
Lotus salad 

Bangkok Hanoi Restaurant* -- 52A Ly Thuong Kiet.  Among the best Thai I've tasted in Hanoi. Pretty authentic and even had some spice. Dishes were well prepared. Good representation of variety of Thai foods. (03/08) 

Tom yum goong
Noodles w/soy and vegetables
Fried shrimp cakes
Fried spring rolls
Yum plaa duk foo
Som tham
Grilled eggplant
Chicken in green curry
Grilled banana in coconut cream 

Le Beaulieu -- in the Sofitel Metropole Hanoi's fanciest restaurant. Fine, European food. Traditional or innovative dishes listed on the menu. Attentive service. (01/08)

Salmon w/blue cheese soup and asparagus 
Langoustine lasagna
Poached pear w/caramel 

BarBetta* – 35C Cao Ba Quat.  I’m pretty sure this is in the location where I used to get my haircut.  Now, a casual, lounge bar.  A bit grubby looking, but comfortable, low end.  Some interesting cocktails and beer drinks and a friendly kitten in the couch area.  Basic bar food, but good fries, potato wedges etc. (10/13)

Bi Do* -- Lang Ha, up the street from the Embassy. Popular lunch spot. Good variety of Vietnamese dishes. Air conditioned, two story spot. (9/07) 

Pumpkin greens with garlic 
Clam soup 
Beef with onion and green pepper 
Banana flower salad 
Fried tofu 

Bia Hoi Lan Chin* - Lang Ha, up the street from Embassy One of Hanoi's ubiquitous bia hois (outdoor beer halls). Off the street and larger than most. Many evenings, tables are filled with local workers enjoying a beer or five before heading home. Many more men than women, but not completely unisex. Food can be good, but watch out -- some things on the menu will horrify westerners --steamed chicken ovaries or broiled beef penis, for example. (12/07)

Fried tofu 
Morning glory with garlic
Bok Choy with garlic 
French fries

Bien Pho* -- 8 Trang Thi -- fresh seafood, near Sword Lake. Broad menu of seafood dishes. Many Vietnamese customers. (8/07) 

Fried scallops in chili sauce 

Grilled clams 

Bleu du Thuy -- on food street around corner from our apartment. Chic, stands out among local food stalls. Attractive bar downstairs. Very nice happy hour with decent martinis and very good margaritas. Friendly staff. (12/07) [Update: owner/chef sadly passed away.  Restaurant closed]

Mushroom salad
Goat cheese salad

Bobby Chinn's -- 1 Ba Trieu --Very chic restaurant run by an American expatriate across from Sword Lake. Nice decor. Really livens up at night with an eclectic, but expensive, menu. Extensive and high-quality bar. (03/08)  [Update: now moved out by Westlake.  Still popular, but no longer in middle of town]

Salmon burger
Crab three-ways
Caramelized catfish 
Japanese eggplant salad 
Lemon creme brulee 
Green tea roasted duck 

Brother's Cafe -- 26 Nguyen Thai Hoc Outdoor dining in a courtyard off the busy street. Sort of an upscale version of Quan An Ngon, with a Vietnames buffet, plus four women making various soups to order. Very pretty to look at, but food only OK (except the soups, which are quite good). Attracts many Japanese and Chinese tourists. Good for short-time visits as you can sample a wide variety of food. (12/07) 

Bun cha
Pork noodle soup 
shrimp toast
fried tofu
Shrimp on sugar cane
Fried spring rolls
Sweet young rice

Bun Bo Nam Bo, No. 67 Hang Dau. Delicious!

Bun Cha - Bun Cha Hang Manh , No. 1 Hang Manh Street); Look for red awning: Street food bun cha and nem. Maybe best in Hanoi. Lunch only.

Cafe Moca -- 14-16 Nha Tho -- on Nha Tho street, filled with trendy shops and boutiques. Many westerners reading Lonely Planet, along with a few Vietnamese customers. Casual dining. (10/13)

French toast
Mango smoothie

Cafe Pho Co ("Hidden Cafe"), No. 11 Hang Gai. Coffee spot with one of the most amazing views of the city. You have to wander through a shop and many winding staircases to get there. Liz’s favorites: coffee with egg yoke and cafe sua chua da (coffee with yogurt and ice). See article at this link with a picture of what the shop looks  like (best way to find it): http://pufflist.blogspot.com/2009/08/hidden-cafe-hanoi.html

Cay Cau* -- 17A Tran Hung Dao Attached to small, boutique hotel, the DeSyloia, near the Opera House. Recommended by friends. High-quality Vietnamese food. Well-prepared, medium-priced.  Nice variety. One of the better dining options in town. Some outdoor seating and lunch specials. Vietnamese music in the evenings. Became one of our go to spots to bring out of town guests.  (10/13) 

Grilled scallop salad
Grapefruit and shrimp salad
Fried duck
Banana leaf salad
Stir-fried chayote w/garlic
Steamed fish w/ginger and soy 
Fried shrimp
Fried duck
Guangdong style duck
Steamed catfish in soy sauce
Clay pot pork
Claypot fish
Spicy tofu
Stir-fried chayote
Steamed fish with ginger and soy.


Cha Ca Anh Vu* -- on Lang Ha about two blocks from the Embassy Small, Cha Ca (fish) restaurant. Only one dish, with turmeric and fresh dill. Mixed in with vermicelli, peanuts, green onions, fish sauce and (for the brave) shrimp paste.  Very tasty. Good lunch spot. (10/13) 

Cha Ca 

Che Thap Cam 1976* -- 72G Tran Hung Dao Long-time traditional dessert spot in an alley off main street. Popular, though some bad smells in the alley. Bean, coconut, banana dishes. Very good. (12/07)

Chim Sao: 65 NGO hue. Old-style place with antiques. Sit on floor. Good food, but some strange items.

Club 51 - 51 Ly Thai To Sumptuous surroundings in this new restaurant and club owned by a prominent local family. Very comfortable high end furnishings. Likely a place to see and be seen.  At this point, the food was fine, but nothing special. (12/07)

Chicken soup with spices
Grilled beef wrapped around asian pear

Com Chay Nang Tam* -- 79A Tran Hung Dao. Vegetarian restaurant. Not only regular vegetarian dishes, but also several "mock" meat dishes. Pretty interesting stuff. Not all completely succeed, but some quite good. Many different set menus, with plenty of food. (09/07)

"Salmon" 
"Shrimp" with onions
"Pork" in soy sauce
"Snail" and banana curry 
Potato and tofu croquette 
Mock satay 

La Croix Bacalan – 88 Xuan Dieu.  Beautifully done 4 story bar/restaurant.  Elegant yet casual furnishings.  Very high end feel.  Partially owned by the boyfriend of a good friend of Liz’s.  (10/13)

Roast pork
French fries
Salad

Don’s Bistro – Opened in 2009 on West Lake.  Four levels, with open air dining on top.  A huge variety of dishes.  Popular for drinks in the evening as well.  Lost my list of dishes, but a fun dinner spot.  Comfortable place to relax on the fourth floor patio and look out over the lake.  (10/13)

Ete -- Small French-owned restaurant and bar. In midst of redocoration. Good for lunch and burgers.  (05/10)

Gallette w/pork, eggs, and potatoes 
Burger
Potatoes w/aioli 

Fanny's ice cream*: 48 Le Thai Tho. Right on Hoan Kiem lake.  Been there for years. Wide variety of local flavors. Favorites include cinnamon and young rice

5: in old quarter. Was owned by friend, but he may have moved. We hosted party there. Also good for lunches and dinners. 

Food Shop 45 -- 11B Tran Te Xuong -- Indian restaurant overlooking Truc Bach lake on the north side of town. Inside dining upstairs with a/c or outside dining downstairs. Can watch lights of traffic sparkle across the water. Good food, but not as good as in Uganda. (8/07)

Palak paneer
Goat vindaloo
Chana masala 
Chicken kebab 
Samosas 
Garlic naan
Aloo mattar

Food Street* -- around corner from our apartment, between Tran Phu and Dien Bien Phu Several small restaurants with seating on a small, no-car (but a few motorbike) paved pathway. I usually stop at a small spot for beef pho in the mornings on weekends. Tasty and cheap. A bowl plus a bottle of water is $1.35. No frills, but a nice view of life with storekeepers playing with babies and tofu sellers and fruit peddlers hawking their wares. (12/07)

Goethe* -- part of the Goerthe Institute, attached to the library. Eat indoor or outdoor on the patio. German and Vietnamese dishes. Mainly Vietnamese patrons. I did not like my beef stew, but the other dishes looked appetizing. (8/07)

Beef stew

Green Mango -- 18 Hang Quat Street Newly opened in old quarter. Modern interior opens into back courtyard and casual bar area. I've only been for lunch, but looks good for drinks in the evening. Upstairs two plush private rooms. Western and Vietnamese dishes. Not amazing, but fine for now. Nice presentations. (12/09)

Scallop salad
Claypot fish 
Shrimp pizza 
Singapore chicken

Green Tangerine -- 48 Hang Be -- In a beautiful, restored colonial building. Indoor and outdoor seating. Only fans, no AC. Excellent Asian-influenced French cuisine. Beautiful presentation. Interesting combinations. Expensive for Hanoi (03/08) 

Scallops 
Grilled salmon mousse w/lemongrass and ratatouille 
Shrimp with Chinese spices 
Rocquefort and pepper tower 
Grilled Lamb 
Mango charlotte

Halia – In Pacific Place.  Hanoi version of Singapore restaurant.  High-end Asian and Western dishes.  Sophisticated surroundings.  Had special martini nights.  Sadly, I deleted my Hanoi updates from mid-2008 to 2010 and so have lost specific dish recommendations, though I remember the Singapore chili crab pasta was very good.  Update – now on Westlake, next to House of Son Tinh.  Looks out over the lake.  Maybe a little more affordable.  (10/13)

Pork in Asian spices

Hanoi Cinematheque -- 22A Hai Ba Trung, across street from American Club Hidden away in a courtyard off the street, is one of Hanoi's gems -- a modern movie theater showing classic films of all sorts. Attached to the theater is a nice outdoor bar area and inside dining space. Limited, western menu, but what I've had, I've enjoyed. French fries really are good. (12/09) 

Steak
French fries
Beef quesadilla 

Hanoi Garden -- Hang Be Street -- Huge menu. Gets Western tourists, but many Vietnamese families were there celebrating. Very good food. Large portions. Ok decor, but its nice to have restaurants that focus more on the food. (09/07) 

Fish w/mango sauce 
Shrimp and banana flower salad 
Pork ribs and spices 
Fish steamed in banana leaf 

Highway Four – 4 restaurants in Hanoi.  Another casualty of my accidental deletions as I can’t list all the dishes we ate.  However, lots of fun.  Many authentic dishes from the far north, including some for the not so squeamish.  Also, excellent variety of fortified rice wines.  A favorite.  (10/13)

Catfish spring rolls
Fried locust
Smoked pork

Hoa Sua School -- 28A Ha Hoi Street. Restaurant that trains former street kids catering and restaurant skills. Pretty building in quite alley. Pleasant outdoor seating available under trees. String quartet in the evening. Both western and Vietnamese dishes. We've used them for catering and they do a really nice job. (03/08)

Warm goat cheese salad 
Zucchini soup 
Shrimp and avocado salad 
Tofu in spicy sauce
Eggplant and goat cheese on blinis 
Pork in caramel sauce 
Fish in banana leaf 
White tuna w/coconut
Lemon tart
Mixed creme brulee

Hot Rock* -- Gian Vo About 1 kilometer up the street from the Embassy. Newly opened in late 2007 (another, older branch is across the street). Schtick is cooking meat and seafood over a hot rock on the table. Has various other western dishes, pizzas and a few Vietnamese plates. I was pleasantly surprised by the quality of the steak, reportedly imported from the U.S. (12/07) 

Steak
French fries 
Fried spring rolls

Il grillo: 116 Ba Trieu.  Excellent Italian. Cozy, particularly good in winter. Best are pastas. I remember a crab pasta that was quite good.  (2009)

Kamon – 104 Van Phuc.  Japanese spot across from Japanese embassy.   Specialized in okonomiyaki.  Very good, though I’m not as big a fan of mayo on my pancake as many Japanese apparently are. (07/09)

Khazaana -- 1C Tong Dan Eat in or delivery. Not the most beautiful spot, but it seems to do good business, with several South Asians eating when we visited. Has a weekend buffet. Main dishes all ok, but not outstanding. However, the garlic naan was great. (12/07)
Fish tikka
Chicken tikka 
Cheese naan 
Garlic naan 

Korean Restaurant* -- in Oasis hotel, next to Embassy Traditional Korean food with numerous side dishes. Service can be mixed, but we like the food. (02/08) 

Be bim bap 

La -- 25 Ly Quoc Su.  One of the few places that was able to serve high-quality Western and high-quality Vietnamese dishes.  One of our favorites. Canadian owner, though he might have moved on. Good wine. (2010)

La Badiane -- 10 Nam Ngu.  –Opened in 2009.  We went there quite frequently.  One of the more inventive European restaurants.  Very tasty food.  Lost my list of dishes, but everything was good.  Friendly chef.  (06/10)

Latino* -- 102-C8B-Giang Vo Serves Spanish, Cuban, and Mexican food. Pan-Latin decor, as well. Owner supposedly spent time in Cuba. At the end of an alley filled with shoe-shiners. Food not bad. Not exactly Mexican, but no less authentic than what you get at most U.S. places. (01/08)

Chicken burrito

Le Tonkin -- 14 Ngo Van So. Another beautiful, but so-so Vietnamese restaurant. Pretty garden seating or indoor in the A/C. Very broad menu. Popular place for Vietnamese tour guides to bring their wealthy foreign guests.

Bun Bo
Fried fish rolls

Leone D'oro -- 2 Co Tam (across from the Opera) Great location. Small, traditional Italian restaurant with owner/chef. Interior could use some updating. Not very busy when we went. Food generally good. (12/07)

Chickpea soup 
Risotto with Porcini 
Cannoli

Little Hanoi -- in the heart of the old quarter Popular with expats and tourists, but the food actually is quite good. They will deliver sandwiches to the Embassy for lunch. One of Liz's favorites and a good place to stop for lunch while shopping in the area. (04/10) 
Fresh spring rolls 
Chicken pho 
Banana flower salad 
Beef pho
Grilled salami and cheese sandwich 

Little Hue* -- 41 Tho Nhuom Small spot close to our house. Hue style food. Not heavily trafficked. The owner was thrilled to serve us, but the food wasn't great. Not bad, but nothing special. (12/07)

Banana flower salad
mussel dip
Pork wraps

Luna D'Autunno -- 11B Dien Bien Phu Pizza and pasta. Quite good, with delivery. Around the corner from our house. Broad pasta menu. Attracts Europeans. Very reliable quality. We've actually eaten a wider variety than listed below, but I'm not the greatest at keeping up. Great for lunch or dinner or delivery.  One of our top standbys.  (03/10) [Update: Moved to West Lake]

Salami and hot pepper pizza 
Sausage and ricotta pizza 
Amatriciana pizza 
Tortellini w/prosciutto 
Pizza w/speck and taleggio cheese 
Pizza w/sausage, gorgonzola, and fennel 
Eggplant ravioli in butter and sage sauce 
Four cheese ravioli 
Pasta with speck and taleggio

Mai Anh* - 32 Le Van Huu Popular chicken pho shop. Doesn't sell any other food. Open early. A favorite of some of our Vietnamse friends. Very tasty. We would frequently go there after runs.  Particularly good in the chilly winter. (06/10) 

Chicken pho 

Maison d/Vanille -- French patisserie and cafe. Good selection of large salad plates, sandwiches and other western dishes. Solid option for lunch. Can also take out breads, cakes etc. Large open window on the second floor is pretty, but attracts smokers. (12/07) 

Salami sandwich 

May Manh – second floor in Fortuna Hotel across street from US embassy.  All you can eat dim sum.  Great deals, great variety, great food.  Also, good noodles.  We would roll back in to the office completely stuffed.  (06/10)

Mediterraneano: On Nho Tho, around corner from cathedral.  Tapas and Mediterranean food.  Good for people watching.  (2009)

Melia -- large, European 5 star hotel. Sunday brunch. Wide selection of western and Asian dishes, with a few distinctive Spanish plates. Food tasted fine, but I got food poisoning. (8/07)

Metropole – beautiful old colonial hotel. Attentive service. Very upscale. Expensive. Good wine list. Fancy Sunday brunch.  Very nice a la carte dinner menu.  Again, losing 2 years of my updates prevents much detail.  (10/09) 

Lobster
Pear in caramel net 

Mmm cafe* -Tran Phu Across street from our apartment. Fast food and drinks. For younger Vietnamese in a pseudo-hip atmosphere. They go all out on Christmas and Halloween decorations. OK for a snack and a drink. French fries w/garlic butter actually good. (12/07)

French fries with garlic butter
Mango smoothie

1911 - built into the Opera House Owned by the creator of Highlands coffee, extremely well appointed with drinks available outdoors and tables within. Set up designed as a place to see and be seen. Just opened with many wealthy Vietnamese customers and expats. Chef from bleu du thuy is consultant. Had many other dishes than those listed below, but details accidentally deleted.  (03/10) 

Mushroom soup with crispy wanton
Basil risotto 

Ngo Sy Lien* -- small sidewalk lunch stall -- eat sitting on small blue plastic stools. Food prepared in front of you. All local Vietnamese. Very cheap. Proprietess had blackened teeth. (8/07) 

Noodle soup with sausage and pork liver 

Oh My God* -- a few blocks from the Embassy, just off of Lang Ha, across street from Duty Free liquor (11/07) Interesting (and somewhat risque) photograph collection may be the best part of the restaurant. Western, Vietnamese, and Korean menu. Lunch place. So so.
Fried rice
Chicken quesadilla

Oregano -- small Vietnamese run European food store, near the Daewoo. Has meat counter in front. Can get sandwiches or main dishes. Delivers. Small, uncomplicated place. Largely western clientele. Only down side was soundtrack of muzak versions of soft rock. Will help cater. (2010)

Serrano ham and gruyere sandwich 
Grilled bananas and chocolate sauce
Petit Bruxelles -- Near Ha Hoi Belgian-french cuisine. Particularly nice in winter, when you can sit near the fireplace. Normal menu is good, if not spectacular. I love the cheese fondue. Cosy seating, friendly Belgian owner. (2010) 

Cheese fondue 
Parma ham salad
Sausages 
Sauteed shrimp 

Pho Bien*-- Trang Thi Large, affordable seafood restaurant. Can get fish and shellfish in a variety of preparations. (03/08) 

Grilled clams
Steamed snakehead fish w/ginger and scallions
tofu w/seafood and chili 

Pho Cali*-- In the courtyard of a three-star hotel in a small street near the Embassy. Huge menu, ranging from western to Japanese to Korean to Indonesian to Vietnamese. Pho was fine and my friend enjoyed his club sandwich. Not sure about other Asian food. (8/07)

Beef pho
Gyoza
Shrimp
Congee
Nem

Pho Ngon* -- Lang Ha, near the Embassy -- Casual lunch spot attracts local Vietnamese workers. Old reliable, though very crowded in the winter. (02/08) [Update: changed owner in 2009 and went downhill]

Pho 
Chicken pho 
Fried rice 

Pho 24 -- several outlets around town. Part of a chain throughout Vietnam, now expanding internationally. Clean and A/C, as opposed to many street side stalls. Pho was fine. (02/10)

chicken pho 
Beef pho 

Pho Vuong* -- another small chain. I've been to the one on Giang Vo. Similar to Pho 24. I think slightly better. (03/08) 
Beef pho

Press club: 59a Ly thai To: western dishes in modern surroundings. Good burger. Sandwiches and soups. 

Puku:  On food street, off of Tran Phu.  We had our goodbye party here in 2010.  Downstairs, casual coffee house with western breakfasts and lunch/dinner menu.  Upstairs, a large area for catered events.  Apparently, now big for viewing Western sports.  (10/13)

Quan an Ngon* -- interesting and clever idea. In essence, a collection of clean and upscale food stalls. You sit in the dining area and choose from a wide variety of mostly simple Vietnamese dishes. On the periphery, a group of food stalls specialize in each of the dishes. You can get food from many different stalls brought to you by the waitstaff. Very good food. Popular with middle-class Vietnamese. (03/08) [Update: ate there several times after 3/08, but lost write ups.  Food stayed good.]

Fried spring rolls 
Mango salad with seafood 
Shrimp stir fried with lemon grass and chilis 
Bun cha (noodles and grilled pork pattie soup) 
Papaya salad with beef jerky 
Banh Xeo 
Fried shrimp
Chicken pho
Dumplings with shrimp
Banh cuon
nhan tom 
Black beans and coconut milk 

Quan Com Pho* -- 29 Le Van Huu. Attracts many Vietnamese, plus some Japanese. Not great English spoken and no A/C. Came highly recommended and some of the dishes were very good, but not all. (8/07) 

Fish spring rolls Shrimp and pork spring rolls Grilled snakehead fish Deer with lemongrass Pork

Saigon Milan -- in InterContinental Hotel on Westlake Gorgeous new hotel on the edge of Westlake. Modern, sleek, showy. Restaurant has open kitchens along with a view over the pool and, in the distance, the lake. Both Vietnamese (+Asian) and Italian dishes on the menu. Very expensive for Hanoi. On first try, food was mixed. Great appetizer, so-so (and overpriced) entree, and good dessert. (03/08)

 Cantonese duck Hanoi fish stew (snakehead fish in claypot) Mango pudding 

Seasons -- Another upscale Vietnamese restaurant that attracts tourists. Has a variety of set menus. Food was good, but nothing special. (8/07)

Softshell crab Seafood soup Shrimp in sweet and sour sauce Duck and taro Banana flower salad

Tandoor -- 24 Hang Be. Easy delivery with full menu listed on line. Located in heart of the old quarter. Good location, but not the most attractive interior. Excellent take out. Food was flavorful and spicy. (9/07) 

Garlic naan Mutton Rogan Josh Spicy chick peas Murgh malai tandoor Chicken Irani Cheese paneer Palak paneer

Thai Vine -- 31A Xuan Dieu New, upscale Thai, owned by the Vine Group. Fanciful Thai decorations. Broad Thai menu. I was pleasantly surprised at the quality and spiciness of the food. (04/08)

Grilled eggplant salad Pork w/basil Thai omelette w/shrimp Beef penang curry

Verticale -- 19 Ngo Van So Converted townhouse with spice shop, two floors of dining, and a lounge on top. Owned by former chef at the Metropole. Creative French/Asian food. Meticulous preparations with beautiful presentation. Very inventive, but not every dish works – I had monkfish that was freezerburned once. A good place to celebrate. Expensive.
(2009) 

Raw scallop stuffed w/pate and mango 
Goat cheese 
Molten chocolate cake w/strawberry ice cream 
Beef three ways- filet, skewered, jerky 
Shrimp on lemongrass 
Raw fish with horseradish broth 
Mushroom soup
Seabass in banana leaf
Passionfruit sorbet and biscuit

Vine -- 1A Xuan Dieu. Beautiful, well-appointed wine-bar and restaurant. Very sleek and chic. Lots of wood and silk. You can even reserve a table in the wine cellar. Western dishes with some Asian influences. Huge menu.  Some great, but a few misses.  Liz once got venison that had turned.  (2010) 

Hanoi pizza with barbecued pork 
Khi mau spaghetti 
Bruschetta 
Vegetable lasagna 
Lamb shank
Onion soup au gratin
Calzone Risotto 
Venison -- meat was off

Wild Lotus -- 55 Nguyen Dieu Beautiful three story restaurant with open courtyard. Dining upstairs indoor or out. Wonderful in the fall when the weather is cool as the porch is three stories up and more or less quiet. Well-decorated. Upscale Vietnamese food, but quality is mixed. (03/08) 

Grilled shrimp
Seafood soup
Beef with lemongrass
Duck with black pepper 
Lamb with black pepper
Beef with sesame
Shrimp cakes
Red snapper in banana leaf
Fried crab spring rolls
Pork and vegetables with noodles
Asparagus

Wild Rice -- 4 Ngo Thi Nham. Sleek, modern style. Well-appointed, with a back wall of back lit bamboo trees. Pricey for Hanoi with all foreign clientele. Not sure that it accurately reflects what actual Vietnamese eat, but I thought the food was excellent. Well-seasoned, tasty, and fresh. Well-prepared creative combinations. (04/08) 

Barrimundi in lime and mushroom sauce 
Hanoi spring rolls 
Spring rolls w/banana 
Spring rolls w/duck 
Spring rolls w/shrimp and cashews 
Fish in claypot 
Tuna in banana leaf 
Sauteed sweet potato buds with garlic 
Beef salad with herbs
Tofu w/chili and seafood 
Tofu tu xuyen
Grilled beef skewers 
Grilled chicken w/fried rice cakes (rice cakes excellent)
Eggplant
Morning glory with garlic
Beef stew 
Coconut ice cream 

Ho Chi Minh City 

Camargue -- Pretty, outdoor dining. Upstairs over popular bar. Fancy preparations. (01/08)

Creperie -- between Cathedral and Unification Palace. Outdoor dining. Nice breakfast menu, with french and American dishes. (09/07) 

Crepes with syrup 
Mango smoothy 

Manderine -- Vietnamese surroundings, Chinese food and French atmosphere. Romantic dining. (10/01)

Sauteed chinese mustard w/oyster sauce 
Roasted duck Manderine style -- in citrus butter sauce 
Steamed fish Imperial style 
Crab and asparagus soup 
Seafood wonton soup 
Shrimp paste on sugar cane

Nam Phan -- a block from the Park Hyatt. Owned by the Khai Silk company. Very upscale, with servers in beautiful outfits. Focus on upselling is a little off putting. I enjoyed my dish, my Vietnamese co-worker thought her noodle dish was OK. (09/07) 

Claypot fish 
Grilled bananas 

Nha Hang Com Ngon -- 88 Nguyen Du. Same owners as Quan An Ngon in Hanoi. Straight-forward Vietnamese food. Our friends in HCMC really like it. (09/07)

Soft-shell crab w/peppers
Beef with pepper sauce 
Fried spring rolls 
Papaya salad

Opera -- in Park Hyatt hotel. Very modern decor, could be in D.C. or New York. Open air kitchen in the middle. Very expensive for Vietnam, but very good and authentic Italian cuisine. Also, serves a wonderful breakfast every morning for hotel guests. (09/07) 

Linguine w/gorgonzola and walnuts 
Roasted chicken 

Pho 2000* -- across street from Ben Thanh market Clinton visited in 2000. Fast-food atmosphere. Quick service. Decent southern style pho. (04/08)

Beef pho

Refinery -- 74 Hai Ba Trung -- in a courtyard across the street from the Park Hyatt. Comfortable, french bistro with an excellent menu of French classics and a few different dishes. Good beer and juice selection. (01/09) 

Pumpkin soup 
Black and white sesame chicken salad 
Chicken and avocado sandwich 
Sea bass w/olive oil mashed potatoes 
Strawberry, mango and banana juice 

Saigon Saigon -- on top of Caravelle hotel across from the old Opera House. Old colonial feel, open air seating overlooking downtown area. Great for a drink and food is good too. (10/01)

Beef on lemongrass 
Stuffed chicken wings 
Meat salad 
Fried spring rolls
Taro chips

Skewers -- Greek and Middle-Eastern food. Modern decor and service. Good food and a nice change of pace from Asian cuisine. (2008)
Grilled salmon
Baba Ghannoush 

Temple Club -- around corner from Sedona Suites. Upstairs, candlelit, moody. Excellent Vietnamese food -though friends of ours in Ho Chi Minh City say the food has gone downhill since we ate there in 2001. Still has a great, comfortable lounge for drinks as of 09/07. 

Pumpkin ginger soup 
King prawn in hot pot 
Grilled fish Vang 
Southern beef salad 
Saigon chicken salad 
Mustard leaf spring rolls 
Caramel pork 
Bean cake

Tibb -- Hue style food. On little alley. Great food, was not crowded for lunch. (10/01) 

Hue style fried shrimp 
Vietnamese steak 
Ground shrimp pancakes 
Shrimp mousse and rice rolls 
Chicken salad
Tofu w/garlic and chilis

Warda -- Lebanese restaurant owned by the same people who own the Temple Club. Very chic interior with dimmed lights and wooden furniture. Food was mixture of Lebanese and other middle-eastern and Persian specialties. (09/07) 

Shaslik beef 
Baba ghannoush 
Kefteh in tomato sauce 
Fish and Pear tagine 
Lemon and mint drink 
Almond stuffed dates 
Baklava 

Lang Son 

Cam Xoi 126 Ga Doi* Only serves "hill chicken," Vietnamese for free range chicken. The bird is served in a variety of ways, some pleasing to Western tastes, some not. Also, has some vegetables for sides, but no other meats. The night we visited it was filled with one large group of men and one large group of women, both happily drinking and eating across the room from one another. (03/08)

Fried corn
Stir fried greens
Roasted chicken
Fried salted chicken
Chicken innards

New Century Restaurant* -- on an island in a small lake in center of town Large, banquet hall type place. Used for special occasions, such as weddings. Had a group of French tourists in it for lunch when we visited, so it occasionally gets foreign guests. Had several shelves full of local liquors, in which were pickling lizards, bees, and other insects. Food was ok. (03/08)

Roast duck 
omelette w/onion 
Stir fried greens w/garlic

Vit Quay* -- on broad boulevard, recommended by Dept. Ext Affairs driver Serves the local specialty, roast duck. Semi-open air when we went as they were tearing down the back wall to expand. Also, filled with jars of insects and reptiles in liquor. (04/08)

Roast duck 
Stir fried greens w/garlic 
Pickled bamboo shoots w/peppers (spicy)
Duck foot salad
Duck liver and noodles 

Ninh Binh 

Thuy Anh -- Very nice two star hotel (three star quality) with a friendly, English-speaking owner. Restaurant has limited options, but perfectly acceptable food. Small breakfast buffet for guests. (10/07)

Fried noodles with tofu
Fried meat and vegetable rolls
Mixed fried rice 
Whole fish steamed in beer and herbs 

Trau Vang (Golden Buffalo) -- two story, wooden structure on main street (Highway 1A as it passes through town) Large, seemingly popular with families and groups. Bia hoi with menu offering basic dishes and interesting animals/cuts. (10/07)

Fish w/mushroom sauce
Crispy rice with internal organs 

OTHER SOUTHEAST ASIA 

Nepal

Kathmandu 

Chez Caroline - in Mahar Baber mall, south of government offices In upscale (yes, upscale in Kathmandu) little mall, with outdoor seating and excellent French food. (2003)

Lemon and ginger soda 
Toast w/reblochon cheese 
Raclette 
Lemon chicken 
Apple crumble w/vanilla cream 

Dwarika's -- beautiful hotel near airport, with two restaurants Casual dining, with Nepalese, Indian and western dishes. Also, a nice breakfast which you can eat in the courtyard. (2003)

Chicken in Nepalese spices 
Vegetable momo (dumplings) 
Vegetable burger -- fresh and outstanding 
Masala tea 

Ghar-al-kabab -- Part of Anapurna hotel.  Upscale Indian, popular with local well-to-do. Good Indian. (2003)

Chicken kabab 
Cheese and vegetable kabob 
Lentils
Spinach and cheese

Krishnaparpan-- In Dwarika's hotel Beautifully furnished with Nepalese silver and platewear. Waitresses wear traditional attire. Excellent food served as part of six, nine or twelve course meals. You will not leave on an empty stomach. (2003)

Roasted mushrooms 
Roti
Spinach w/Nepalese herbs 
Pan-fried fish w/Nepalese risotto 
Bottle-gourd stuffed w/marinated vegetables 
Rice pancake stuffed w/marinated chicken
Meat Momo 
Vegetable puree 
Lentils
Chicken curry 
Pumpkin curry 
Stir-fried green bean and onion
Stir-fried mini-gourd
Tomato pickle 
Vegetable pickle 
Pumpkin pudding 

Mike's Breakfast -- in Nawar section of town Outdoor dining, focused on breakfasts, but also lunches and dinners. A nice gallery of Nepalese art is attached. (2003)

Scrambled eggs w/potatoes, onions, cheese and herbs 
Muffins 

Temple View -- Patan Across the street from the Patan Museum. Open-air seating on the roof. Go for the view, not the food. (2003)

Vegetable momo
Mango milkshake 

Laos

Luang Prabang 

Auberge Ca Lao -- on the Mekong. Also, a very nice small hotel.  Not crowded for dinner, perhaps because its not on the main street. Can eat and watch the Mekong. Food is good, but not remarkable. (2002)

Luang Prabang mixed vegetable soup w/ meat 
Chicken in coconut broth 
Tamarind sherbert

Dao Fa -- on Thanon Sakkalin, next to Healthy and Fresh Bakery Small, European owned restaurant. Mostly mediterranean menu. Good tapas. Some nice non-alcoholic drinks. (2002)

Green olives in garlic and chili oil 
Chicken crepe

Healthy and Fresh Bakery -- on main drag, Thanon Sakkalin. Nice Lao staff. Good western foods, especially baked goods. Popular for breakfast and lunch. (2003)

Vegetarian pizza 
Banana bread 

Le Café Ban Vat Sene -- across the street from Villa Santi. Pretty converted French colonial building. Light meals. Liz says excellent capuccino. (2002)

Scrambled eggs
Greek salad
Breads

L'Elephant -- one block from the river, around the corner from the Villa Santi. Same owner as the Café Ban Vat Sene. Pretty, can eat outside. Mix of European and Lao food. As of 2003, probably nicest dining in city. (2003)

River algae 
Watercress soup 
Fried camembert w/watercress salad 
Wild boar w/local mushrooms 
Catfish w/mustard sauce 
Honey ginger and cinammon banana ice cream 
Coconut crème brulee

Tamnak Lao -- Lao restaurant in middle of main drag, Thanon Sakkalin. Good Lao food. (2002)

Eggplant and chicken stew 
Pak bung faj daeng 
Sticky rice 

Villa Santi -- pretty hotel on Thanon Sakkalin, in middle of wats and french colonial buildings. Beautiful bar in inner courtyard. Second floor restaurant has Lao and European food with Lao music and dancing. Seating on the terrace overlooks the main street. A small buffet breakfast. Decent food.  (2003)

River algae 
Garlic onion soup -- strong, but I liked very much
Pork w/lemongrass
Seafood mousse 

Burma

Pagan 

Pagan Hotel -- Very nice, traditional style hotel on the Irawaddy river. Can dine by the pool. Food is OK, but a little oily.

Chicken curry
Chicken consomme

Sarabha -- Just outside the gate to old Pagan. Outdoor dining. Burmese food. I liked my dishes; Liz's was greasy. 

Fried shrimp curry 
Special soup (beef, pork, sausage, seafood, fish and vegetables)
Chicken kebob 

Rangoon

LePlanteur -- Though perhaps the best restaurant in town, its not easy to find. Down a windy lane. Beautiful décor. Outdoor dining. Excellent, painstakingly prepared French cuisine. Pricey. (2002)

Rack of lamb w/stuffed mini-vegetables and potatoes 

L'Opera -- Outdoor dining. Near diplomatic housing. Upscale Italian. Surprisingly broad menu, with good quality ingredients. (2002)

Barbecued pork and chicken
Rigatoni w/tomato sauce
Stuffed shells 
Pizza w/parma ham 
Seafood salad

PanSea Hotel -- near U.S. Cultural Center.  A beautiful hotel, redone in a colonial style. Great place for a drink. We had a very good lunch. (2002)

Eggplant and smoked mozzarella 
Chicken kebobs
 Rum raisin ice cream 

Strand Hotel -- on the Strand in downtown Rangoon, near the U.S. Embassy.  Redone Raffles hotel. Old world dining area. Very good food. Popular bar.  (2002)

Tea leaf salad 
Fish cake salad 
Cuttlefish salad
Tomato salad 
Lentil soup 
Butterfish curry w/stirfried roselle leaves 
Sesame cake 

Cambodia

Phnom Penh 

Elephant Bar -- in the Le Royal Hotel Beautiful hotel. Old colonial style bar. Expensive, but powerful drinks.

Java Café and Gallery -- Sihanouk street, near Independence monument Pretty, airy, with some outdoor seating, overlooking park by monument. Mixed quality food.  (2002)

Foccacia w/mushrooms and three cheeses

Khmer Kitchen -- near Street 360 Khmer and Thai specialties. Outdoor seating. Affordable.  (2002)

Khmer style fish soup 
Thai red curry 
Khmer red curry
Spring rolls w/taro
Chicken w/cashews

River House -- Street 110 Right on the river. Good spot to people watch from the balcony. Mediterranean food. (2002)

Mezze platter 

Topaz -- Sothearos Pretty, French and Thai. Popular. Very good French food. (2002)

Watercress soup 
Roast Pork in Mustard Cream w/onion and mushrooms 
Banana crepe w/chocolate sauce 

Siem Reap 

Angkor Village -- Beautiful hotel. Nice, open air restaurant w/ views of pools and Khmer style buildings. (2003)

Shrimp 
Pumpkin lemongrass soup 
Fish salad w/lemon and mint 
Chicken curry
Pear sorbet w/pear liquor
Spring rolls 
Chicken w/lemon grass 
Beef rolls w/lemon grass 
Beef w/basil
Pineapple pie

Café D'Angkor -- right in front of Angkor Wat. Little boutique and restaurant. Clean w/ very good food, both Cambodian and Continental. (2002)

Chicken satay 
Khmer style roasted chicken 
Amok fish (fish in coconut broth w/amok leaves)

Foreign Correspondents Club -- in downtown, near the Grand Hotel D'Angkor and across from the PanSea. Beautifully remodeled. Open air dining with a beautiful bar. Varied and interesting menu. Great, modern kitchen. Good food. (2002)

Grilled chicken w/mashed potatoes 
Beef and turkey salad 
Chicken souvlaki sandwich 

Grand Hotel D'Angkor -- Classic hotel, redone but carries on grand colonial feel. Beautiful dining room, good food. Also see the Elephant Bar, downstairs, with a colonial feel and great drinks. (2003)

Beef skewers on lemongrass
Snakehead curry 
Pork tenderloin w/mixed vegetables 
Apple tart 

Pan Sea -- new hotel, on main street in Siem Reap Pretty dining area off the entrance hall. Indoor or outdoor seating. Largely western menu. (2002)

Smoked salmon 
Fish in mustard curry cream sauce 
Pistachio cookie in almond cream 

China

Beijing

Apothecary:  Upscale bar near our hotel – Opposite House.  Serves well-prepared designer cocktails with an emphasis on drinks with roots in Asia.  (04/09)

Da Dong*:  Specializes in Peking Duck.  Does not disappoint.  Don’t recall the side dishes, though I remember that I tried duck brain.  Each duck has a unique number.  Had to wait for table. (04/09)

Din Tai Fung: Beijing branch of Taiwanese chain.  First time I tried it, though I subsequently have eaten several times in KL and Jakarta.  Famous for soup dumplings – dim sum filled with soup that explode in your mouth as you eat them.  Other dumplings also tasty as were veggie and noodle sides. (04/09)

Dongbei Tiger:  Northeastern Chinese cuisine.  Spicier than I had thought.  Mostly local Chinese patrons.  Enjoyed everything.  Not sure if menu was in English.  (04/09)

Noodles with sesame

Kunming

Ginkgo Elite:  So good, we ate there twice.  Really tasty food.  Not heavy or gloppy.  Well-spiced.  Nice, clean environment.  Recall one dish, which we did not order, was “braised, dried frog sperm.”  (05/08)

Pizza da Rocco: On street with most Western restaurants.  Much better than expected.  Food really tasted authentic and not just because we had set a low bar.  Wait staff couldn’t speak English, though menus were easy to read.  I think I had lasagna.  (05/08)

Salvador's:  Named after Dali.  In quarter with Western backpacker.  Popular for Western breakfasts.  Downscale, but good food.  (05/08)

Shipping Huiguan: I think we had seen a write up in the NYTimes.  Hard to find, even though a block from our hotel.  Excellent southwestern Chinese cuisine.  Menu was not in English.  English-speaking at customer at another table saved us from ordering donkey.  (05/08)


Shanghai

Lost heaven: Da li chicken. Burmese dishes. Tasty.  Well-designed décor. (2009)

South Beauty:  Sichuan, beautiful setting, spicy.  Windows out onto gardens.  Upscale.  All dishes were good.  (2009)


Indonesia

Semanyak (Bali)

Metis:  Upscale with art and jewelry store as you walk in.  Bar and restaurant in back.  Open air with view of paddies.  Seems like it was on a crowded street, but I am not sure how close to beach or other sights.  Rated very highly.  Food was very good and affordable.  (01/14)

Arugula, pine nut, feta, pumpkin salad
Wagyu cheeseburger

Ubud (Bali)

Bunute Cafe: Western and local dishes.  Open air on one of main streets.  Acoustic guitarist accompanies at night.  Our friends did not like, but my rice dish was actually ok.  (01/14)

Pomegranate Café:  On walking path through the rice paddies just outside of town.  Open air, nice view out over the paddies.  Very casual.  Our drinks were fine.   Did not try food, but dishes on other tables looked pretty good.  (01/14)

Sari Organic:  Also on walking path through rice paddies just outside of town.  Apparently, makes its own wine and (possibly) beer.  We just had smoothies, which were good.  (01/14)

Three Monkeys:  On one of the main drags.  Long and narrow, but opens up in back with view over rice paddies.  Seems like a good date place, though we showed up in a group with 5 kids.  Large menu of local and western dishes.  Not cheap for Ubud, but still a bargain compared to the US.  I liked my pizza.  (1/14)

Mushroom white pizza
Thai pumpkin bisque

Umah Pizza:  Small pizza place on sidestreet.  Our friends who live there like it.  Has its own wood-fired oven.   I only had the chicken Caesar salad, which was fine.  (01/14)

Chicken Caesar salad


Singapore

Breadtalk -- on Orchard street, near the malls A take away pastry shop, with western and Asian dinner and dessert pastries. Smells great walking by. (2002)

Coconut custard pastry 
Apple pastry 
Pumpkin pastry 
Spicy shrimp pastry
Shrimp pastry

Hali -- in botanical gardens.  Pretty, outdoor seating, next to the Orchid gardens (2002)

Nasi Goreng

Indochine -- Club Street, near the business center On a street of restored shophouses, now bars and restaurants. Sleek, mixture of Lao, Cambodian and Vietnamese food. (add 2013 update)

Fresh spring rolls 
Beef in betel leaves 
Squid in spicy sauce
Duck curry 
Beef in butter and pepper 
Chicken laab
Lamb Pumpkin custard

Northern Indian restaurant (name?)-- off of Orchard, near California Gym Outdoor dining, among several other restaurants in food court. (2002)

Mango lassi 
Chicken masala 
Chicken curry 
Garlic naan 
Kashmiri rice 
Rogan josh 
Cauliflower curry 

Ocho -- in Chijmes, near Raffles Spanish, tapas in a beautiful restored monastery, now a collection of shops, restaurants and bars. Very good food for lunch. (2002)

Gazpacho 
Stuffed mushrooms
Spicy shrimp 
Spicy beef tostada 

Bars: Cold Beer -- in area off of Orchard. Converted shophouses, now bars. Lots of expats and some Singaporeans. Upscale beers. Outdoor seating.

Taiwan

Taipei

Qin Wei Guan – on Yanji Street.  Shanxi food.  Spicy with strong Central Asian influences.  Absolutely delicious.  Very casual atmosphere.  As I recall, largely stucco, with large table for group.  (2010)

You Po noodles
Pao Mo lamb
Roast pork
Fried potatoes with sour vinegar


Villa 32:  Spa in the beginning of the hills.  Can have a long soak in the mineral hot springs and then a healthy meal.  Western and Chinese.  Don’t recall the specifics, but it was enjoyable.  (2010)