Thailand 18: July 9, 2002

After 3 weeks of vacation in DC, Liz and I returned to Thailand 2 weeks ago. Man, is it a long flight. Highlights: flying over snowcapped volcanoes in Alaska and the ability to obtain Business Class upgrades. Downside: heavy turbulence coming into Japan. Nothing like the pilot firing up the engines and soaring upward in a thunderstorm to instill confidence. We then had a long layover in Narita. By the time we reached Bangkok we were wiped out and slept for 12 hours.

We enjoyed our visit in the States and, unlike what we had heard from some of our Bangkok friends, it did not feel strange being back in Washington, other than the occasional sticker shock ($4 for cream cheese) and the inability to gauge taxi times. We're used to 1 mile rides taking a half hour. In DC, we kept arriving early because we forgot about its (relative) lack of traffic. Additionally, we really noticed how green a city DC is, especially compared to Bangkok.

I had my shoulder operated on while we were in DC and it is still in a sling. Few Thais get shoulder surgery and the sight of me walking down the street in the shoulder harness has led to some gawking, almost like a I sprouted a third eye or grew a trunk. However, many Thais ask me what happened and when I explain that I hurt my shoulder they nod and wish it gets better.

I have begun my physical therapy at a local hospital. The services are quite good and at $7 a visit, we don't need to worry if insurance will cover everything. Thais have a reputation for being gentle and not wanting to annoy/push people and friends told me that Thai physical therapists might not prod me the way therapists would in the States. Not to worry. This is, after all, the land of the body stomping Thai massage. As I did my shoulder stretches, my therapist helped by subtly pushing (or more accurately, yanking) my arm. I responded with a manly whimper. Only 9 more months of this.

The World Cup was a very big deal in Thailand, despite the fact that the Thai squad didn't qualify. Bangkok would almost shut down as everyone hurried home to watch the matches. Traffic before the games was oppressive, but non-existent while they were going on. I think that most Thais initially supported South Korea out of Asian solidarity, but many turned against them after allegations that the Koreans paid off the refs in the matches against Italy and Spain. These claims, which seem to have no basis in fact, were highlighted in all the Thai-language sports sections and many Thai believed them. As an American, we have to deal with this all the time, and it was a relief seeing another country get a taste of some of the nonsense that the Thai press reports.

Attended Canada day for the second straight year. No beer chugging contests, as it took place on a Sunday, but lots of Canadian music. The background tape was a continuous loop of BTO, the Guess Who, Alanis Morisette, and Bryan Adams. (Sorry Tim McHugh, no Rush or Triumph). The party was held in the back of the Siam InterContinental Hotel, which is scheduled to be torn down this month. One of the few remaining green spaces in the downtown area, naturally, it is being converted into a mall. Americans have the reputation of paving over the countryside, but if given the opportunity, the rest of the world will do it quicker and more completely.

I'm not sure if this made news in the States, but it was a big deal here. Apparently, the owner of a Thai restaurant in Philadelphia, modified an image of the Thai King to use in advertisements. The Thai consulate in Philadelphia somehow got wind of it and wrote letters of complaint to the mayor and the Governor of Pennsylvania asking them to make the owner remove the ads. (Looks like the Consul General needs a primer on the U.S. Constitution's Freedom of Speech provisions). Thai papers wrote about the humiliating insult to the people of Thailand. I would be more sympathetic if the Thai government made an effort to stop every clothing stall from selling Bin Laden t-shirts. But, as our friend Kay noted, I guess cultural sensitivity only goes one way.