Thailand 3: July 8, 2001

New on life in Bangkok:

I continue to run in Lumpini Park, which presents the opportunity for new and exciting interactions. The other day, I was jogging along next to the lake when a large (2 and a half foot large) lizard ambled across the path and into the lake. Several Thai, walking in the area, stopped and watched, but no one seemed phased that a giant lizard moved among them. On my next circuit round the park, the lizard calmly walked back the way it had come and slipped into a canal. On the same run, I approached one of the large, outdoor aerobics classes. As per usual, the group of largely middle-aged Thai women were stretching and straining to the sound of electronic pop. This time, they were listening to a song with one phrase repeated over and over. As I got closer, I could finally make it out . . . . "Sex Drive!" Yep, hundreds of Thai matrons working out to a song urging them to, you know, do it. Several school kids like to hang out in the park and the boys, in particular, try to look cool, wearing sun glasses and furtively smoking cigarettes. But, if you're wearing a high school uniform that includes blue shorts, a shirt with your name and class on it, and knee high white socks, you're not looking cool no matter how many cigarettes you smoke. On my last run, it started to rain and most Thai sprinted for cover (I've written before that most Thai "runners" prefer a more sedate pace). The few farang (westerners) continued to bravely (stupidly) run through the storm. Seeing my courageous pace, a Thai woman joined my run. It was a good opportunity to practice Thai in a non-work atmosphere, even though our conversation sounded something like this. "So, you like to run?" "Yes, I like to run very much." "Running is fun, isn't it?" "Yes, I agree."
I've tried a few new foods. Most recently, Shark fin (sorry enviro-friends, it was in a business meeting and it would have looked bad not to try it). Not a winner -- texture of spaghetti squash, taste of a sneaker. Also, fish maw. Mmm, fish stomach.
A little more on our surroundings. We're on a great street, with lots of classy restaurants and bars . . . and Bangkok's premier heavy metal club -- The Metal Zone (motto: "Hard as a Rock, Heavy as a Metal"). You know you're at the Metal Zone when you see the 25 foot dragon in full roar clutching an electric guitar.
On those evenings when we stay at home, we're able to watch HBO on cable. Of course, unlike US HBO, the Thai version usually shows crappy straight to video movies from the mid-80s. Wait, that is like US HBO. Thailand also censors TV, so nudity and violence are blurred out and cursing is editted. I tried to watch Scarface the other day, but without cursing it was like a silent picture. For the Venable people, there is also a 24 hour infomercial channel in Thai, which should warm the cockles of Jeff Knowles' heart.
One of my duties at work is to serve as the Deputy Permanent US Representative to a regional UN organization. It meets once a month in a large conference hall in the UN compound. The room appears similar to the UN General Assembly in New York (though much smaller) with name placards for each country (We are between the UK and Uzbekistan). The other day, my boss couldn't make it so I sat in the US chair. I did a good job of looking grave and nodding sagely, but it was all I could do to keep myself from pushing the voting buttons. I kept waiting for the Russian rep to bang his shoe and tell me he would bury me, but it didn't happen.
July 4th occuring last week, we had a busy time of it. The US community had its celebration on July 1 at the International School. The American population in Thailand is estimated at about 15,000. The celebration probably attracted about 700, plus lots of Thai and a few Canadians trying to hone in on a good time. An impressive fireworks display (hard to imagine getting permission for that in the middle of a business district in an American city). The next day, we went to Canada day. Only about 300 Canadians in Bangkok, so it was a bit smaller. Swankier food too -- a salmon and prime rib buffet compared to the American event, which featured Marines smoking barbecue. However, in some areas, we residents of the Southern territories seemed less wild. Our event featured the US Ambassador receiving the Marine color guard and discussing the ideology of the Founding Fathers, the Canadian event featured the Canadian Ambassador presiding over a beer chugging contest.
On the 4th itself, the Embassy holds a reception. So, while its a vacation day, its not a "vacation" day. All Embassy officers are expected to attend, and Junior Officers must greet the guests. Its a lot of time on the feet, but I got to meet several ministers, generals, and members of the privey council (King's advisors) and escort them to shake hands with the Ambassador. Actually, the event wasn't bad. It featured food from the many regions of the US (California pizza, New York Cheesecake, Southwestern burritos, Turkey and stuffing from wherever etc.). The Thai seemed to enjoy it, but there was a lot left over when we were allowed to eat (Its our job to mingle, not to munch during the heart of these events).
Liz and I just got back from the beach. We went to a resort in Cha Am, about 100 miles south of Bangkok on the Gulf of Thailand. The resort was very nice, not quite Four Seasons, but definitely similar to a Hilton, and for $65 a night you can't beat it. On the way to our room, we passed Coconut palms and Banana trees -- with bunches of bananas hanging down. Maybe I've lived a sheltered life, but was I excited to see those trees. I'd never seen bananas outside of a supermarket and there they were right outside our door. We went down to the pool after we got there and ran into lots of older Germans -- fat women in bikinis, fatter men in way too little. It was like Little Dusseldorf. However, as it was a three day weekend in Thailand, about an hour later, hordes of Thai families invaded, followed the next day by the Japanese. The pool became a riot of little kids (girls in bathing caps, mind you) running, swimming and squealing. The Germans retreated to the shade, but Liz and I thought it was nice. Thai mothers for the most part wear very conservative swim attire (picture the US in the 1950s, one-piece suits with those skirt-like attachments) and usually remain under the umbrellas while the fathers swim with the kids. Their attire is based partially on the culture but also because in Thailand, women want to look as light skinned as possible. If you watch Thai TV stations, there are ad after ad about whitening cream. Its not a rush to imitate the West, but in Thailand, the lighter the skin means you did not grow up working in the fields. Its a class thing.
We also did some sightseeing including an old palace up about 500 feet on a hill built by King Mongkut (think, the King and I) with wonderful views. Hot as all get out, we (I) were dripping in sweat. Also, visited a monastery populated by dogs, monkeys and roosters. Not like most Bangkok temples -- though there were a fair amount of Thai tourists. The main draw was a natural cave. You walk in about 50 feet and there is a large hall filled with several large, Golden Buddha images. Quite striking.
Of course, any Herrup/Nightingale vacation centers around food and we ate well again. We're adding to our Thai dining guide, so we'll be prepared when we get visitors.
If anyone has any questions about Thai culture, people or other subjects about which I remain largely ignorant, feel free to e-mail.