Thailand 28: April 23, 2003

Liz and I just returned from what probably will be our last long trip during our stay -- Nepal. We spent five days in the Kathmandu valley. We didn't get to trek, but we saw quite a bit. Nepal and Thailand are both "developing" countries, but at different ends of the developing spectrum. While Nepal doesn't have the conveniences of Bangkok, it had beautiful architecture, fascinating temples, great shopping, and, most importantly, pleasant weather. It was a pleasure to go out for a walk and not come back drenched in sweat.

We stayed in one of the nicest hotels we have ever visited -- Dwarika's. Kathmandu is not well known for five-star accomodation, but Dwarika's is a living museum. The founder created the hotel as a place to show off Nepalese crafts and products and it is just beautiful, from the intricately carved wooden windows to the Nepalese cuisine to the furniture in the rooms. A band of 6 monkeys also paid afternoon visits, necessitating the locking of hotel room windows. I looked out the window one afternoon to come face to face with a visibly surprised male macacque who went flying off in shock.

We enjoyed just walking the streets of Kathmandu. There is a marked difference in South Asian and Southeast Asian cultures, despite common Hindu traditions. Women dressed largely in saris and shalwar khameezes (sp?). Incense filled the air as musicians beat out tunes in front of the temples. We noticed that religion played a very active part in peoples' everyday lives. Everyone stopped by the temple or left offerings or received red paste for their foreheads or flowers for their hair. Many lit little fires which they carried around and around shrines. Much of Nepali life took place on the streets, from markets, to children playing, to craftsmen/women plying their trade, to washing and bathing. Much of the region does not have running water in homes, so people would go to the communal well to wash clothes and collect water to bring home. Mendicants (or frauds, I couldn't tell which were which) begged for alms and blessed the crowds.

Kathmandu residents are a mix of light-skinned Nepalese, darker-skinned Indians, and broader-faced Tibetans. After the Chinese put down the Tibetan rebellion in 1959, many Tibetans fled to the Kathmandu valley and have settled down. We visited a striking Tibetan stoupa with a view of the entire valley. Resident Tibetans in colorful attire circled the stoupa spinning prayer wheels and meeting with friends. Many Tibetans continue to dress traditionally and we could see the similarities between them and the Lao/Thai hilltribes that also migrated fairly recently from the Tibetan plateau.

We spent afternoons in Patan and Baktapur, two other towns in the valley. Patan has remarkable temples and a terrific museum focusing on the Nepalese combination of Hindu and Buddhist religious traditions. Baktapur is a medieval city, with few cars. We arrived on New Year's and watched several processions of men carrying religious icons with women and children approaching to offer food, throw flowers and receive blessings. Unfortunately, in the Spring, the valley lies in a haze, and while we could see the closest mountains, we did not get a view of the high Himalayas. Baktapur, in particular, showed us why the developing world needs family planning. Everywhere you went, dozens of little kids played, ate, washed, slept or cried. Too many kids for too few jobs. Crossing temple squares was an adventure as we had to politely refuse offered tours from dozens of youngsters, each reciting the capital of the U.S., the names of our presidents and their opinions on U.S. foreign policy (Bush good, Saddam bad -- but I wonder what they say to the French visitors).

We also visited the Thamel area of Kathmandu -- the area frequented by the international backpacker set. The area is huge, dwarfing the Khao San region in Bangkok, with guesthouses, shops, restaurants, bars, trekking companies. Interestingly, many of the signs contained Hebrew translations (more than French or German), evidencing the large number of young Israelis stopping in Nepal after they finish their military service. Several of the young, Western women were wearing traditional Nepalese clothing. I'm not sure what the Nepalese think of that, but, to me, it would seem more sincere if they spent less time hanging out on the laps of their German boyfriends in the local beer bars. Also, throughout Kathmandu were signs for English and accounting schools. From my very limited perspective, it seemed liked many residents desparately wanted to improve their chances in life. Unfortunately for Nepal, this appeared to mean that they would leave and probably not come back.